The Lovely South of Thailand

Greetings from the Southern Islands of Thailand!

The warm weather is everything I dreamed it would be, and it feels overdue by a long shot. Since hitting Northern Vietnam in December I have barely broken a weather-induced sweat once. Was I crazy to think that my 6 months in SE Asia would all be warm and sunny? Apparently.

However, now everything is as it should be.

I bussed down to Bangkok on February 8 to meet my dear friend Rishelle, who was flying in to spend 2 weeks of her vacation with me! We made our way South to Hua Hin, a nice seaside town, intent upon visiting The Wildlife Friends Foundation of Thailand, an animal rescue sanctuary reccommended to me by some fellow travelers who had spent some time volunteering there.

It was very cool to visit and see all the different animals there, from lizards, to birds, to monkeys, to bears...and elephants! The animals have each been rescued from different sad scenarios within Thailand. Exotic animals are an effective money-making strategy here. Tourists dont think twice about going to the tiger temple for a selfie with a drugged up wildcat, or riding an elephant that has been abused its whole life. It is really sad, and hearing the stories of the individual rescued aniamls is pretty heartbreaking. It was encouraging that WFFT is really working hard to educate locals and tourists on how damaging this industry is to the wildlife of Thailand (and other imported creatures). Often it is just a matter of not realizing how much the animals suffer.

WFFT works to rehabilitiate and release every animal for whom this is realistic possibility, but others are very human dependent and/or incapable of living in the wild. These animals will spend the rest of their lives in enclosures at the sanctuary, as close to a "normal" life as possible.

Our full-day tour of the center was very enjoyable and a highlight of our to weeks together. I would definitely recommend it to anyone, especially those wanting to get up close to the amazing creatures of Thailand without supporting the sketchy, abusive animal tourism industry.

After Hua Hin, we jetted our way to Koh Phangan for some serious beach time. We stayed on the North end of the island for the first few days in an amazing jungle bungalow just on the end of Thong Nai Pan Yai- super peaceful and quiet, and at a surprisingly reasonable price!


We spent one night in Haad Rin to get a teensy taste of what the Full Moon Party might be like, and then quickly scooted over to Sanctuary; a super hippie resort on a remote stretch of beach along the East coast of the island. The breezy establishment was wreathed in a haze of incense, and populated by tanned, toned, and tattooed waifs either meditating or detoxing (or both), bright green fresh veggie juices in hand. The dress code followed something like, "wear as little as possible, but if you must wear something, make sure it floats in the breeze, and throw some flowers in your hair".  The cheapest accommodation available to us was in the dorm room located above the restraunt, where we camped out on thin mattresses and fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the short just outside our window. Naturally I loved it there, and we both enjoyed some yoga, vegetarian food, and of course some top-notch people watching!

After a few days we felt sufficiently zen to move on to face the big island of Koh Samui, staying in the center close to the Chaweng beach. Here we took a moto taxi to see a waterfall (3 of us on one tiny moped!), rented paddleboards (so fun!), and were intiiated into our first Thai massage! I am now addicted. Paying less than $15/hr for a massage is such a good deal, and they really dont go easy on you. It is almost half chiropractic adjustment haha!

Unfortuantely, that was the end of our vacation together, and Rishelle had to head back to Bangkok from Samui. I stuck around another day or two to see Ang Thong National park, and then had a very long day of travel to the other side of the mainland, arrving at Koh Lanta.

Now I am enjoying the soft sandy beaches and roasting hot sunshine for a few more days before I head south again, and enter Malaysia! Im not sure what I will find there, but Im excited to find out! I can feel the end of my journey creepiing up on me. I'm working on a few things for when I return "home", and Im trying to wrap my mind around not being on the road anymore. I still have a little over a month though, so it might be a bit early to mourn the end ;-) 

February is the new New Year

Let's be honest, no one is prepared for New Years when it bursts in right after the chaos of Christmas. After a frenzy of festivities, we havent even had time to process what our goals for the New Year will be.

Hence, I propose that February is the new New Year. Maybe this is convenient for me, because I spent most of December and January eating things I shouldnt and generally being lazy, and I knew that I needed to make a change...but I also needed a little help.

Feeling in a bit of slump post-holidays, I was out for dinner with a friend from my hostel in Chiang Mai, and spotted a flyer for yoga in Pai, my next destination (or so I thought, until my Myanmar visa went through). Knowing Pai to be a bit of a hippie place, I thought it might be fun to do some yoga there, because I like yoga and have really missed it while I have been traveling.

As it turns out, the flyer was for a yoga retreat, which is something I have never done before, and frankly never expcted that I would ever do. I was too late to sign up for the retreat that week, but there was an opening beginning of February, and as I did more research on it and read some reviews, I felt very strongly that this was something I wanted to do! I needed some kind of jumpstart, and the retreat seemed to fit the bill, as well as being a cool new travel experience. Because isnt that what travel is all about? Seeing and trying new things?

Upon arrival I discovered that the theme of the week was "purification". Essentially, we were about to begin a week of detox! It was exactly what I needed, and I couldnt have been more excited about it.

Every morning I woke up at 6:45am to bundle up in thick sweater, hat, and scarf (here in the mountains it can be quite chilly before the sun comes out. And just to prove that I am not completely off my rocker, it is cold enough that you can see your breath- so there!), and trundle down to the kitchen for a mug of hot lemon ginger tea, followed by a mug of vegan chai tea. Did I mention that from the moment we woke up until lunch time at 12pm, we are all in a "silence session"? No one except our instructor spoke during that time, and although the first morning I had to swallow my habitual morning greetings, I actually appreciated the silence. Its amazing how much pressure it takes off when you can just sit with a group without feeling the need to make conversation. It also allows time for introspection and reflection.

Tea time was followed by nasal cleansing- that's right, we used a personal neti pot every morning, and unclogged whatever might be obstructing our breath that morning! After that we moved straight into breathing exercises, which I had done before, but never for so long at a time, and then silent meditation.

I'll confess right now that I suck at meditation. There are WAY too many thoughts going through my head, and I have real trouble trying to slow them down. I struggled through each meditation session, but I did try, and that's the important thing right? The flies and misquitos landing on my face didnt help matters.
I still think the most meditative state I have ever been in was while I was driving my motorbike through Vietnam. There's definitely something wrong with me.

When we finished our meditation, we would eat breakfast, which was usually a scrumptious pureed vegetable soup or bowl of noodles, chased by a vegetable juice. While this was not to everyone's liking, I adored it, and may even consider this an alternative to my usual yogurt and granola when I get home.

A short break for digestion followed breakfast. This was usually spent lolling about in the blissfully warm pools of morning sunshine, until 10am. Then the real work began.

The two hour session of Hatha yoga was always challenging, but I loved it! This was our chance to feel the burn and get the heart rate up. It never took long before we started peeling off the layers we piled on in the morning. Every session would end in at least 15 minutes of shavasana, which is basically a fancy way of saying that you lay down and get so relaxed that you almost fall asleep. It feels SO good after working hard!

At 12pm we ate lunch, which was the largest meal of the day. Everything we ate all week was vegetarian and dairy-free, but I never missed meat or dairy. The food was absolutely fantastic, gourmet stuff. Everything was portioned out for us, so if we were still hungry there was always a basket of fruit and veggies to snack on, and plenty of herbal tea available at all times.

Maybe this is overshare, but I knew the detox was working by the second day! I was visiting the toilet every 5 minutes and had a huge headache. My gut was loudly protesting the abundance of nearly-raw vegetables, complaining that it actually had to work to digest things, rather than quickly absorbing the sugar-laden and greasy foods that unfortunately had become my normal diet. However, my skin began to clear and I was starting to feel more energetic.

At 3pm, after the heat of the day, we would gather in the studio for a Q&A period, followed by a short lecture of yoga philosphy. We could ask any question at all- whether about a certain yoga pose, a question regarding the previous day's talk, something we had experienced during one of the sessions, or about life in general. I was a little hesitant about the yoga philosphy talks, as I am decidedly not into Buddhism. Our teacher assured us it was not "religious" in that sense,  though she spoke on the Yama and Niyama teachings, which I believe are derived from Buddhism. It was basically universally recognized values. Simple in concept, difficult in practice. Nothing earth-shattering, but good reminders. Maybe I'm too cynical :P

Afterwards we started our Yin yoga session. Yin yoga requires holding a pose for a long period of time. We usually worked in 3-5 minute intervals. Something as simple as laying on your back with a bolster underneath you and your arms overhead can honestly become torture after a minute or two. By five minutes, you want to scream. The point is to work at breathing into and relaxing the tension, but this is very difficult. The very worst pose required sitting in a crouch, balancing with only your toes. For. Five. Minutes.
I wanted to die.
Apparently only walking in flip-flops for 4 months can be detrimental to the foot muscles.
While Yin yoga looks easier than Hatha, I much preferred the fast-paced morning session!

Dinner offered welcome warmth as temperatures began to drop when the sun went down, and the sweaters and scarves began to return. This was the time of day when the group began to get chatty, discussing just how painful a certain pose was, or how delicious the food was, or asking get-to-know-you questions. Tea was guzzled, and friendships forged.

In the evening we would gather for a second session of meditation, and once we did an excursion to the hot springs, which was fantastic!

I was usually in bed by 10pm, and never had any trouble falling asleep! I have to say, that this was the first time in 4 months that I have had a regular routine, access to a hot shower, and slept in the same bed for a week. It was a really nice change!

Having completed the retreat yesterday, I have been evaluating how I feel.
For one thing, my stomach feels MUCH happier. I need less sleep, as I have naturally been waking up early and not struggling to get out of bed. My body is not as sore as i thought it would be after 4 hours of intense exercise for 6 days in a row. In fact, its not very sore at all. I think my mind is clearer, and I'm more aware of how I'm feeling and how that affects my body.

Overall it was a restful and rejuvenating week! It was definitely worth the time and money, and I would do another yoga retreat without hesitation, and reccomend it to anyone.

Now I'm headed to Bangkok to meet a very dear friend who is flying in from Canada, and then we will spend 2 weeks in the Southern Islands together! I couldnt be more excited! Koh Phangan, here we come! (No, we will not be there during Full Moon...and I dont think I could throw away my newly-detoxed state on a party anyway!)

10 Things You MIght Not Know About Myanmar

Well, those last 3 weeks went really quickly!!!
I blame my lack of blog updates on a number of factors.
1) the internet connections in Myanmar suck.
2) Google has conspired against my blogger account and made signing in more difficult and time-consuming than it was worth.
3) sheer laziness.

But, I have been posting lots of photos on instagram for you (#jillgoesbackpacking), and I find myself with a decent wifi connection and a lovely balcony overlooking the river and mountains of Hpa-An on my last evening in this beautiful country...so I will take some time to relect on some of the most memorable and unique parts of Myanmar.

1. The Longyi (pronounced "LON-jee")

One of the first things you notice when you walk off the plane into the airport is the Longyi, which is essentially a traditional skirt worn by both men and women. The men wear more subdued hues of blue, green, brown, etc, and usually it has a plaid or striped pattern, while the women wear vivid colors and floral or more abstract designs. The Longyi is about 2 meters long and sewn into a tube shape. Whereas the men gather the fabric in front and tie it in a knot, the women tuck it to one side to make it more fitted, and slightly more restrictive.
It is quite a beautiful peice of clothing, and its easy to buy in the markets for very cheap. An economical longyi might be anywhere from 2000-3000 Kyat (roughly $2-3 CAD), but a better quality one made with silk or other expensive materials will cost you a lot more.
My Dutch friend bought herself a longyi in Bagan and the friendly guesthouse matron enthusiastically showed her how to wear it. I have also seen many male tourists embace the cool, breezy comfort while traveling through Myanmar! I asked one if he had someone show him how to tie it, as there appears to be different methods, and the men frequently undo the knots to straighten and adjust the cloth. He said yes, but when they showed him how to tie it by demonstrating on their own, he saw a lot more than he bargained for, since they don't wear any underwear underneath!

2.  Thanaka

This is a thick yellowish paste made of some kind of bark. It is worn on the face primarily by women and children, and often in different designs (such as circles on the cheeks, or dots/stripes on the forehead and chin). Thanaka is multipurpose, used as sunscreen, a cosmetic, and as it is apparently very good for clearing the skin of blemishes! Some men do wear it, but our guide in Hsipaw explained that it is generally less socially acceptable for males (they might take some heckling about being gay, apparently) so they often only wear it at night to cleanse their skin under the cover of darkness!

3. Green Tea...with everything

Tea is a big part of Myanmar culture. It is grown here, and while you might have a tough time finding a bar or any kind of restraunt open past 9pm, tea shops are found on every corner at every hour. These adorable local establishments are easily spotted due to their tiny red plastic stools and wooden tables underneath an open-air shop with an awning covered in plastic advertising the local beer or whisky (which is kind of funny, since the real draw is the tea...). There is a thermos of green tea on every table, and it is generally free and served with absolutely everything. My friend and I ordered cappuccinos once, and we were served green tea while we waited!

4. Fermented Tea Leaf Salad

While we are on the subject of tea, there is a unique dish here in Myanmar made of tea leaves that I have grown quite fond of! It doesnt look like much more than some mushy green leaves mixed with a few random ingredients, but the flavor is great! Its a bit sour, but its kind of nice, like pickles. There are crunchy dried peas and beans, small diced onion, and sometimes tomato or other veggies. Its really tasty when mixed with rice...I might try to recreate it at home, if I can find the ingredients!

5. Betel Nut

One of the first things I noticed was a common habit the men (and some women) have of chewing some kind of (what I assumed was addictive) substance wrapped in a leaf. I have since learned that this is an areca nut, which is wrapped in a betel leaf painted with limestone and sprinkled with tobacco. It is chewed as a mild intoxicant/stimulant. The limestone is used to basically lacerate the gums to allow the stimulant to more easily enter the bloodstream, and it is easy to spot the heavy users. They sport a mouth of rotting red-stained teeth, and constantly have a cheekful of betel nut. And they spit everywhere. The streets are stained red...with betel juice. I'm not a fan.

6. Chinlon

The national sport in Myanmar is known as Chinlon. I first saw this in Laos, but its obviously much more popular here. This game is played by two teams with a total of 6 players, and a high net dividing them, similar to a volleyball court. However, each side attempts to knock a small woven rattan ball onto the opponents side using any part of their body except their arms and hands. Its quite amazing to watch, as they are very flexible and nimble, hitting the chinlon ball very hard with their feet, knees, and head. I have seen some female tourists (who have experience with soccer) join in, much to the amusement of the locals, since Myanmar girls dont play much (at least not in the small towns. The country does have a very good women's national team, though).

7. The Trishaw

The trishaw is a contraption I have seen everywhere in Myanmar, from the small villages to the big cities. Its essentially a huge tricycle with two side passenger seats; one facing forwards, one backwards! These look extremeley uncomfortable and slow, and the poor men who push them must have killer strong legs because there is certainly no gears of any kind on those things.

8. Christmas Lights...all year round.

I do not know what the Myanmar fascination with bright, colorful lights is about...but they are EVERYWHERE! In almost every temple, the Buddha is surrounded with a halo of gawdy, flashing lights like the circus has come to town, the clocktowers or landmark buildings in the center of town will almost certainly be lit up like a Christmas tree at night, and even the local buses have rainbow colored lights flashing around the windows (on the inside!). Its like a tacky trailer park that leaves up the holiday decorations year round. So ridiculous...but kind of hilarious and loveable.

9. Guesthouses and Breakfast

Tourism is relatively new in Myanmar, and compared to places like Thailand and Vietnam, its a lot more expensive for travelers. This means hostels haven't really been established here yet, so accommodation options are usually limited to guesthoues and hotels. The upside of these slightly pricier digs is that 9 times of out 10 you are served a free breakfast between 7-9am. Sometimes this means toast and tea, but most of the time we have had our bellies pleasantly filled with piping hot omlettes, shan noodles, samosas, or pancakes, and there is almost always some fruit served as well! I actually quite like starting my morning like this, rather than trying to scope out a cheap breakfast option along the road somewhere. I know...I'm lazy.

10. Buddhism

Myanmar is probably the most intensely religious SE Asian country I have been to. Buddhism permeates every aspect of the culture, and it is evident everywhere you look. From the monks and nuns of all ages that walk the streets, sometimes collecting alms, to the elaborate temples found on every corner, the morning readings of the Dhamma on the radio and tv, the random trucks with huge speakers blaring Buddhist chants, and the golden stupas spotting the countryside. Merit-making, or the performing of good deeds to improve your karma, motivates everything from keeping good hygiene to giving to the poor. Morning rituals of offering food and drink along with prayers at household shrines occurs regularly.
Most SE Asian countries profess Buddhism as their primary religion, but this is the first place where I have seen it taken to seriously by the general population. It has been very interesting to witness!

Unfortunately, tomorrow I leave Myanmar. It has been a marvellous 3 weeks here, and I am sad to leave, though I have a lot of look forward to in the next 3 weeks! Myanmar was certainly a one-of-a-kind experience, and I hope these 10 points gave you a little taste of what I have been seeing and living recently!

Off On An Adventure!

My first action of the day was to check the status of my e-visa application to Myanmar...and I was accepted!

I immediately began researching flights, and I'm happy to announce that I am booked to fly into Yangon tomorrow!

I am SO excited, as everyone that I've met who has been to Myanmar has loved it so much. I'm a little afraid that my expectations might be too high now, but either way I will be staying there for 3 weeks! I think it will be so interesting, and quite different from everything I've seen so far.

Wish me luck!

Past, Present, and Future

This morning I had every intention of catching a bus to Chiang Mai.
I packed up my things, and then left to find a bite of breakfast before going to the bus station to purchase a ticket.
I remembered reading about BaanChivitMai in the Lonely Planet guidebook, and it happened to cross my path, so I stopped in. Its a local bakery whose proceeds support disadvantaged children, and whose coffee and free wifi fuel the tourist types.

Now, here I am, an hour later, having had a wholly unhealthy breakfast of cafe fare, still typing away on my tablet. I just ordered a fruit smoothie to balance things out, and that will probably keep me going for another hour.

The atmosphere in this cafe/bakery is so calm, and so...familiar. I feel like I'm at home, which at the moment is quite comforting! I also have a lot of emailing/interneting to do, so its a convenient place to hunker down. I think I'll stay one more night in Chiang Rai!

PAST

For the last week or so I have completely neglected the blog and my personal journal. I will try to get back on track!

First of all...I have departed Laos! I spent just over 2 weeks there, and while it was very beautiful and I liked it a lot, I just couldn't seem to connect there. I don't know how to explain this. I struggled to decide whether to spend more time there or head back to Thailand, and as soon as I arrived in Chiang Rai, I knew I had made the right choice. I am LOVING this part of Thailand!

That being said, I would love to go back to Laos one day and explore more of the country, but I would go with someone else. I found it a difficult country to travel solo, in part because:

1. 99%* of tourists are French, and don't want to speak English
2. 90%* of tourists are couples and aren't necessarily interested in meeting other travelers
3. Most accommodation is private rooms, not dorms, so its more difficult to meet people
4. Everything is very expensive (roughly same prices as at home, or more), especially if you can't split costs with anyone.
5. Its a country where there isn't necesarily much to do, but its a cool place to hang out. This means good company is essential.

*Highly scientific numbers

I only saw a handful of what Laos has to offer, so in my reasoning, this makes it an excellent location to return to. I think it would be a wonderful place to cycle/motorbike through. One day :)

PRESENT

Now that I'm back in Thailand, I have been enjoying how cheap everything is...especially the food!!! It's so delicious. And its much warmer and sunnier than Laos. After having spent 2 weeks in Hanoi, and 2 weeks in Northern Laos, I was beginning to feel some serious sun deprivation. In Thailand I can wear shorts and tank tops again! It's glorious. (Yes, I realize you are all in the dead of winter and I shouldn't complain about "chilly" 20 degree weather). Best of all, there are so many cheap hostels to stay in and meet other travelers!

FUTURE

My plan now is to visit a few places in Northern Thailand while waiting for my e-Visa for Myanmar to be processed. Fingers crossed it will be accepted, and then I will be heading off to possibly the most interesting and un-touristed country of my trip! I have met a few people that have been there already, and they all loved it! Apparently tourists can only stay in certain registered accommodations, which makes it expensive ($25-35/night for "cheap" places, compared to $7-8/night in Thailand), but on the plus side that means it will be easy to locate other travelers :)

After Myanmar, I wll fly back to Bangkok to meet up with my dear friend Rishelle who is coming to Thailand for a 2 week vacation! I couldn't be more excited! We will bask in the sun of the Southern Islands, and it will be so great to have some quality time together!

When she flies home, I will continue South to Malaysia to eat away my depression noshing on the delicious street food of Penang...and that's about as far as my plans go! I'm halfway through my 6 month travels, but I think the 2016 half will pass much faster than the 2015 half (which has gone by very quickly!).

Happy New Year, Regis readers!

Double Christmas

So I decided that since it really did not feel like Christmas in the least here in Lao, I will simply not make a big fuss about the holiday this year and just celebrate double Christmas next year! I think it was a good decision.

Needless to say, nothing noteworthy occured in the travel department. I returned from my 2 night stay in Muang Ngoi, and was fortunate enough to find reasonably-priced accommodation with enough wifi to skype the family back home! So that was really nice.

And as it turns out I got to spend a night in a rodent-infested bungalow (the reason for the low price, I guess)! So...that was...exciting...

Some photos from the past week:

Village life along the river...on the boat drive to Muang Ngoi

Tat Kuang Si, famous waterfalls outside Luang Prabang

The easy part of the 100 Waterfalls Trek...

Waterfall #99...and we climbed it! (The hard part)

Goaties!

Laundry day means heading down to the river!

Sunset view from my bungalow in Muang Ngoi...killer.

Being Lazy in Luang Prabang

I did it.
I finally booked a ticket out of Luang Prabang. I am committed to leaving.
I was beginning to think that I might stay forever, or at least until my month-long visa expired of my bank account ran dry (which would be fairly quick...it is FREAKING expensive here).

Luang Prabang has a way of seducing you into forgetting that there might be more to life that sleeping in, nibbling delicious French-inspired goodies, wandering peaceful atmospheric streets, snapping photos of pictueresque sunny vistas, and eyeing interesting handicrafts at the Night Market. That's about all I've been doing in my abundant spare time the past week. Apart from taking my first day "off", and losing a day or two to being sick, I have been enjoying taking it easy and exploring the nooks, crannies, and restaurants in the city.

Going to the trouble of buying a ticket, the thought of trying to pack my overstuffed backpack -and put it on my back!-, going somewhere new and moving my butt from the comfort of the adorable bungalow where I have been staying all sounded like TOO MUCH WORK.

I reminded myself it was all about baby steps. Yesterday, I forced my lethargic legs to take me to the minibus that would drive me to Tat Kuang Si, the amazing local waterfalls. SO MUCH WORK. On the bus I forced myself to start a conversation with the girl next to me. She was about my age, from California, and also traveling solo. It didnt take us long to become fast friends, and we spent the rest of the day exploring together, including hiking up and around the falls, cooing over the hilarious fat-cheeked bears in the Bear Rescue Center, and being astounded by butterfly facts at the Butterfly Park. Once we had returned to the city, we shared dinner, visted the night market, and then sadly, parted ways.

The little excursion roused me from my sleepy (lazy) stupor, and I faced the fact that I really should move on and see more of this beautiful country.

I am headed for Nong Khiaw next...not really sure what there is to do there, but I have heard its nice, so I"ll figure it out when I arrive, I guess!

Sorry I can't seem to upload any photos today...the internet is not cooperating!

A Bad Canadian

I have to keep explaining to people that I don't qualify as a perfect Canadian: I don't speak French, I don't ski or snowboard, and now...my last confession, I have incredibly low tolerance for the cold.

I have thankfully recovered from the hellish flu that struck me down a couple nights ago, and had fully intended to get all the sightseeing done today that I have been missing out on. When I woke up, it was pouring rain, and more importantly...it was cold! Yes, my friends, it can get cold in SE asia!

Ok, granted, perhaps 16 degrees sounds like a balmy temperature to those of you back home, but over here it is freaking FREEZING! I am wearing all my warmest clothes and shivering away...there is no indoor heating, and most buildings follow the ol' Rivendell indoor/outdoor thing, so the cool breeze gets ya every time.

Apparently I am now acclimatized to 30°+ weather. I am looking forward to once again feeling the kiss of the sun on my skin (in moderation, as my easily-burned complexion reminds me). All I want to do is crawl into bed, pull the covers over me, and hibernate until the sun comes out.

Landed in Lao

I am approaching night #4 in Luang Prabang, and I have done shockingly little. I flew in late Sunday night, and went straight to bed, and gave myself permission to do absolutely nothing on Monday in order to recuperate from the nonstop schedule of the past couple weeks. I slept in for the first time in FOREVER, dilly-dallied on the internet, played some chess with the proprietor of the guesthouse (I lost...badly), chatted with some other guests, ate a traditional Lao dinner at the renowned Tamarind restraunt, and basically just chilled out all day long!
Yesterday I felt a little under the weather, but decided to do some sightseeing, so I walked around town, and enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Mekong River. Unfortunately, I was feeling worse and worse all night, and by 7:30pm I was back at the guesthouse and very sick. It was a long, miserable night with frequent dashes to the toilet, and today i have done nothing but lay in bed, sleep a bit, and hope that all will be well by tomorrow. I don't think it is food poisoning...probably a flu, as a few other guests have caught something similar as well.
I have a long to-do list in Luang Prabang that I have hardly touched, and currently I have no energy to accomplish any of them. On the bright side, Luang Prabang is the perfect place to relax...the vibe here is extremely laid back, and the climate is comfortable. I dont think I will have any trouble using my month-long visa to enjoy this beautiful place, even if I do nothing but swing in a hammock.

Making Personal History in Hanoi

I don't think its any secret that I have been enjoying some motorbike time since I arrived in SE Asia. After my first 5 minute ride on the back of a mototaxi, I was hooked. From that point on I would take any chance I could get to hitch a ride with whoever was heading the same direction I  was. I was also inspired by how many girls I met who had decided to bike across Vietnam by themselves, with no previous experience! This enthusiasm was tempered by the amount of motorbike injuries I saw, and by the utter craziness of Vietnamese traffic. My fears and somewhat cautious nature have held me back from renting my own bike...until last week.

When I arrived in Hanoi, cold and shivering, I booked myself into Flipside Hostel, a brand new Kiwi/Vietnamse-run establishment in the Old Quarter. The reviews on Tripadvisor had been good, and I was banking on the promise that the owners were allegedly super helpful in figuring out non-touristy ways to see the north. I had 2 items left on my Vietnam list, and 10 days to accomplish them: Sapa, and Halong Bay. Both were apparently beautiful, but absolutely overrun with tourists, ruining the whole experience.

As soon as I walked into the hostel, my eyes landed on the oversize posterboard advertising a 4N/3D motorbike tour through Ha Giang, the Northern province next to Sapa. I felt a sudden surge of adrenaline...this was it! After a long conversation with the hostel owner, Linh, I was convinced this was my opportunity to see the beautiful, remote North, and to try my hand at driving the bike. One quick credit card transaction later, and I was committed (and I was also signed up for a relaxing cruise through Halong Bay to commence directly after the motobike tour!).

Before long I was tucked into a berth on a night bus to Ha Giang, to awaken early the next morning and begin the adventure! I was in a group of 12: 2 x 22-yr-old Kiwi guides, 8 guys of varying nationalities, ages, and motorbike experience, my new Scottish friend H (I met her at Flipside Hostel), and I. The testosterone factor was mugh higher than I had anticipated, so I was grateful for H's presence. The senior tour guide seemed intent on convincing the two of us girls (but not the guys) not to drive our own bikes, using several tactics...fear (its dangerous, there's no medical facilities nearby), guilt (you will probably be really slow, and hold everyone back), and doubt (once you get out there, you can't turn back). H wasn't set on driving anyway, so she was happy to ride on the back of a bike, but the sexist intimdation tactics got my back up, and I put on a very convincing show that I no doubts whatsoever about hopping on a bike and driving off into the unknown for 3 days! Fake it 'til you make it, right?

trying to pass some trucks...I am in the grey sweater!

There was almost nothing in the way of driving lessons. Our guide told us how to turn on the semi-auto bikes, how to switch gears, and then told us to drive down the road and come back again. We were parked on the main street of the town, and we would have to make a left turn almost immediately, with oncoming traffic...Vietnamese style.

lots of rain and mist on the 2nd day!

I will admit, there were doubts in my mind.
Until I accelerated.
I made a smooth left turn, and cruised down the circuit.
It felt good.

My guide still didn't sound very happy that I wanted to drive, but we compromised by getting me an automatic bike, so I would't have to worry about gear changes...and I'll concede that this was probably a wise choice.

On the order of China

However, I am pleased to report that despite one incident (now I have my own war wound!), my motorbike tour was a huge success, I was able to keep up to the leading group for the most part, and I was not the weakest link. It was a huge thrill, I had an incredible amount of fun, and accomplished something I wasn't entirely sure was possible for me! I also confirmed my love of motorbiking.

Lots of this plant growing on the side of the road to fend off those aches and pains...

Cruising down those narrow, muddy, winding roads, navigating traffic, and dodging obstacles was a challenge that required the utmost concentratiion and focus...it may sound ridiculous, but for me it was almost meditative. There was literally nothing else going on in my head but facing what was in front of me and controlling the bike. I was surprised to find that it wasn't stressful at all...instead there was just peaceful clarity. Whether it was ripping down a straight paved stretch, or bouncing across a slippery mud-puddle-strewn construction zone, I absolutely loved it!

I am so glad that I took the risk and tried something new! I saw some amazing scenery, got off the beaten tourist track, challenged myself, and found something new that I love to do. I don't know when or where I will have the opportunity to drive again, but I feel like my trip through Ha Giang will not be the last time!

Spelunking in Phong Nha

I spent 2 nights in Hué after leaving Da Nang...didn't love it there, but on the plus side, I made friends with two really hilarious girls from Hong Kong, and we had a lot of fun together!

After the shenanigans in Hué, I caught a bus packed to bursting with young backpackers to the now-famous village of Phong Nha, on the outskirts of the National Park. The main draw there is the numerous amazing caves in the area, including Son Doong,the newly-discovered largest cave in the world! Since I don't have $3,000 to spare for that, I decided to take a much smaller tour to see 2 other popular caves: Paradise Cave, and the Dark Cave. It was a lot pricier than I cared to pay, but figured it was my only chance to see these places, and they were highly recommended by other travelers.

Lucky for me, in the evening I ran into a guy I had previously met in Saigon, and he had his own motorbike...and he invited me to come along on his self-guided tour the next morning! It took less than .5 seconds for me to agree to this. Motorbiking > organized tour buses any and every day!

We sped off down the country roads early the next morning, and I could barely wipe the stupid grin off my face as I watched the scenes go by: the lush green countryside dotted with cows, the striking karst mountains wreathed in morning mist, and the friendly locals who smiled at us from their own motorbikes.

I had heard a lot of talk about Paradise Cave, so my expectations were pretty high. I had also been told that it is important to get there as early as possible, before the tourist crowds (the same crowd I would have been a part of, had fate and my new friend not smiled on me). Our timing was immpeccable. We were the first to enter, followed soon after by a solo traveler with similar aspirations for solitary sightseeing! The three of us shared some smug appreciation of the peace and quiet, which bonded us for the rest of the day, actually.

Paradise Cave did not disappoint. It was absolutely incredible! I couldn't believe how big it was...each time I thought it was coming to an end, we would round a corner and there would be more amazing formations! The ceiling soared above us, and the cave actually goes on for 31km, though only about 1 km is open to public viewing, unless you pay for a special tour that will take you further. It is lit with spotlights to show off the best of the stalctites and stalgmites, and little rivers coursing through.

My camera doesn't do so well in the dim light, so its difficult to capture the magnitude of the cavern, and my photos don't do it justice. But you can get an idea of some of the cooler formations! It was amazing to be there with no one else around, just taking in the reverent silence and calm.

After taking our time, we literally met the swarms of chattering, selfie-stick-happy tourists being herded into the mouth of the cave by their microphone-toting tour guides as we stepped out. We all shared a look of relief, and gratititude for our luck.

Next, we hopped back on the bikes and made our way to the much more developed Dark Cave, which involved ziplining across the lake, swimming to the mouth of the cave, scrambling in bare feet through the sliippery mud inside to get to a huge mud bath! It was the trippiest sensation! The mud was thin enough to wade through, but thick enough that it felt like quicksand, and you could easily sit or lay down in it and simply be suspended there! We were in a group of about 10, and it was quite funny to goof around in there- no photos unfortunately, as it was not a safe place for cameras!

After our mud bath, there was more swimming in the lake, and finished off with a quick kayak paddle, and a short zipline with a drop into the lake to top it all off. It was all good fun, and after cleaning up we ate a tasty lunch at the restaurant on-site, and then began the drive back to the village.

Our final stop of the day was the office to get a ticket to Phong Nha Caves, which can only be reached by hiring a boat to get you there and take you through, since a river runs through the cave. This was highly enjoyable, and felt like a completely different experience from either of the two previous caves.

It was also hilarious because our 14-passenger boat carried 11 Vietnamese visitors who were quite entertained by having us three foreigners on board. They asked us a lot of questions in Vietnamese that we simply had no way of understanding, and once we were in the caves it became a full-on photoshoot. I was hugged, my hand was held, and I was required to pose for many, many photos with quite a few different people! The three of us whities were all laughing SO hard because we just felt ridiculous! But I guess we were a real novelty, and they were looking at the photos all the way home, and asking me if I had babies and was married, and if one of the guys was my boyfriend. We were a real source of entertainment!

All good things come to an end, however, and after dinner I caught the 12 hour night bus to Hanoi...onwards to the next adventure! But I will always have the fond memories of a great day motorbiking in Phong Nha!

Doing "Normal" Stuff in Da Nang

After spending way too much money on tailored clothing in Hoi An, I chilled out for 2 nights at a hostel in Da Nang and really did a lot of nothing.

Da Nang is a big-ish city about an hour from Hoi An, and its definitely a little more off the beaten track. There are some tourists that stay there and commute into Hoi An to avoid the higher accommodation and food prices in the Old Town, but walking around the city you definitely feel like you stick out as a white person! I got a lot of stares and occasionally a child would point at me!

I had to do some t-shirt shopping since I didnt pack very many and a few have been ruined along the course of the backpacking adventures. This was also an adventure. For one thing, Vietnamese women are TINY. At home I generally fit a size small or medium shirt, but here...I am a Large or XL! And sometimes they dont even carry those sizes! The upside is that clothing here is so much cheaper...I got 2 good quality shirts that I like for 50,000 VND each, which is roughly between $3-4 CAD.

The other thing was that I would walk into a store and the staff would just look at me and break into a shocked smile, like as if a clown had just burst in with noisemakers and a dance routine. Then they would drop everything and try to suggest things for me to wear- usually stuff I would not be caught dead in, and usually way too small. I think both of us were a little bewildered as to how to proceed. Eventually we would both give up, but it was quite sweet. When I did actually buy something, the one salesgirl who had followed me around told me in broken English that my purchase was very pretty.

Ordering food at a restraurant was an interesting experience! With no English translation, no English-speaking staff, and few photos to go on, I literally just pointed at something within my price range and hoped for the best! It turned out to be Ban Xeo, which is rice paper pancakes, fried omelets, and veggies served with peanut dip- the same dish I ate at Friendsgiving! Delicious.
I repeated the point-and-wait-for-a-surprise routine each time I ate out. Since I loved most Vietnamese food, this was generally quite successful.

On my last night in Da Nang I was feeling a bit nostaligc for home, and wanted to do something that felt normal. So I went to the movie theatre, and I watched The Hunger Games....yes, it was in English, with Vietnamese subtitles! I was the only white person in the entire mall/cinema, and definitely got a lot of curious stares and points. I was also the only solo female, and it turned out to be a date movie haha...Vietnamese couples everywhere! The plus side was that the movie theatre seats were the most comfortable I have ever had the joy of sitting in, and Ihad the most prime seat in the house, and no one sitting in front of me. And I enjoyed the movie, and had been looking forward to watching it for a long time. So...a successful night. I dont think I've ever watched a movie in theatres by myself before!

The only "normal" thing left to do, that I meant to accomplish there and didnt, is get a haircut! I am still too afraid to allow someone who doesn't speak my language to take the shears to my head. Its a situation that is quickly getting out of control, however. Between the humidity and just the sheer quanitity of hair that is accumulating on my head, I'm beginning to look like a crazy person. The bright tourist pants probably dont help.

Even though these "normal" activites still were different than they would be at home, it was strangely comforting to just go about the everyday things, rather than do tourist stuff. But now I'm back at it...spent a day in Hué exploring the historic citadel, and today I have arrived via tourist bus in Phong Nha, to pay ridiculous amounts of money for a touristy tour...but I think it will be cool, so I hope its worth it! We will see...

Lady of Leisure

I've spent the last 3 nights in the charming, albeit excessively touristic, town of Hoi An...really doing nothing but eat, relax, and make my tailoring appointments!

Hoi An is famous for its absolutely insane amount of tailoring shops. It's not a big place, and as you walk past street after street with shoulder-to-shoulder tailor shops selliing almost identical products, you wonder how there can possibly be enough business to support them all!

Originally I thought it was kind of lame to do such a "Western" thing as shopping when I'm here in Vietnam. But the whole experience of tailor-made clothing has been so different from what I'm used to, it's actually been a hilarious adventure!

On my first day I had a few ideas in my head of what I would like to have made (but foolishly no specifics). I decided to have a walk around and get a feel for things before committing myself anywhere. In reality however, I am an easy target.

I was walking down the street past the central market, just taking in the sights and sounds, when a woman who had been chatting to a friend on the side of the street caught up to me and struck up a conversation with the usual questions that prelude a sales pitch:

"Hello! How are you? Where are you from? How long you staying in Hoi An?"

I tried to pick up my pace to shake her off while politely fending off more questions, but she was a professional at this, and my Canadian politeness took over and I had to stop and have a proper conversation. I found her to actually be quite pleasant and friendly, so when she invited me into the market to see her cloth shop I didn't say no, only that I had no money on me and couldn't buy anything (which was 100% true!). She assured me that was fine, she just wanted me to look. I liked her smile and felt enough initial trust in her that I went along with it instead of beginning the messy extrication situation.

The cloth market is literally a warehouse of tiny booths lined with fabrics, each housing a team of tailors and their wares. I was swiftly seated and shown a stack of catalogues of various Western fashions. I was a bit overwhelmed and certainly underprepared!

"What you like? You want dress?" They brought out brochures of fabric swatches and samples. My mind froze, and I blurted out, "I think I would like a winter coat!".

Why my mind latched upon that idea, I do not know. It's true that I've been hunting for a nice wool coat for quite a while, and it's really difficult to find one to fit properly.

Almost before I knew what was happening, I was being measured, advised which color suited my skin tone, and written out a receipt for the necessary deposit.

Since I honestly didn't have the money on me, the very detirmined woman offered to drive me back to my homestay so I could get my card. It was quite a hilarious situation, and I had to admire her tenacity.

I spent the night anxiously wondering if I'd just made a huge mistake and wasted a bunch of money. While it cost about half of what I would pay at home for an off-the-rack coat, it still felt like a significant investment- especially since I would be packing it around for the next 4 months!

I didn't need to worry. When I saw the coat the next day, I loved it, and it was almost perfect- the necessary second fitting went smoothly, and I was confident it would be absolutely perfect when it came back. I even decided to commit to having "my" new tailor whip up a couple more things for me.

It ended up raining for most of the 4 days I spent in Hoi An, so I didn't feel so guilty that most of it was spent running around to different tailoring appointments with my new British friend! She had 2 pairs of jeans made, a pair of leather oxfords, and a pair of leather ballet flats. I ended up with my beautiful wool coat, a pair of leather sandals, a staple LBD, and a bathingsuit!

We joked about our really difficult life as ladies of leisure, where our greatest concerns were that something might not fit exactly right, or the color would not be exactly as expected. And then we would sight and say how tired we were from all the decision-making we had to do, and how many different tailors we had to visit! Its a tough life!

Maybe I will post a photo of the dress and my tailor later, but I can promise you there will be no bathingsuit photos on the blog!!!

Friendsgiving

Yesterday was American Thanksgiving, and I got invited to a travelers' get-together organized by a couple American girls from another hostel. The girl that invited me is British, and is staying at the same guesthouse I am, and only randomly met one of these other girls by chance. She wanted to take part and asked me if I'd like to go. This is how the world of backpackers social lives works!

In the end there were about 10-12 of us, and I think only 3 were American! There were several other Canadians (Hello, Canmore AB!), a bunch of Europeans. We met at the Central Market and then went a local restaurant which fed us a DELICIOUS all-you-can-eat dinner of assemble-your-own rice wraps with greens, BBQed pork, egg omelets, spring rolls, and mouthwatering peanut sauce. I was a happy, happy camper.

The best part, though, was the massive collection of strangers (most people only knew one other person at the beginning of the meal) who all sat down together and enjoyed each others company for several hours! Traveling really brings people together....its funny how you can just have that one thing in common, and soon you feel like you've been friends forever!

I have been enjoying my new British friend's company since my first evening in Hoi An (we spent all day together yesterday), and I met another girl at this dinner from California who was really cool, and the three of us just got along so well- what a treat! I get such a boost when I find friends along the way, because I actually don't usually like hanging out by myself!!

As per Thanksgiving tradition, we went around the table saying something we were thankful for. Health, safety, and new travel friends featured heavily, and I too am thankful for these things. But for myself, I said I was thankful for being lucky enough to have the opportunity to travel.

Having met so many local women my age has made me aware of the privileges of my circumstances. Having been born into the advantages that are innate to being a middle-class Canadian have enabled me to be financially independent, and enabled me to travel in so many more subtle ways (different expectations of women, education, opportunity, independence, even support and encouragement from peers, etc). Many women around the world do not have these priviledges. I spoke with a tailor yesterday who is my age...she learned the trade from her mother and has worked since age 18, long hours, no days off, and she is also raising a family. She has never had the opportunity or means to travel, and probably never will.

I feel incredibly lucky to have the life that I do, and I never want to take it for granted. I am trying to make the most of these next few months before I buckle down to work hard at my job and my future schooling, and I hope that one day I can put my education and privileges to work to improve the lives of women around the world...in what capacity this will be, I have no idea...but that is the dream that is taking shape :)

(Unfortunately my friend A. and I are cut out of the photo...we are the 2 closest to the camera!)

Life in Vietnam

Hard to believe I've been in Vietnam for a week already!
There was almost immediate culture shock going from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City...the contrasts in wealth and modernity are stark. Vietnam's southern metropolis is a vibrant, buzzing city with some sleek skypscrapers and a fashionably-dressed younger population.
The French colonial influence is easilly spotted in the city center, where the architecture is extremely European, and Chanel and Dior shops line the immaculate streets.
Scooters are the transit option of choice here in Vietnam, and at all times of day they zip along the streets, weaving wildly...they literally never have a red light. Only cars have to stop at red lights. To cross the street is to take your life in your hands.

I spent 2 nights in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, since I was already all city-ed out after Phnom Penh. My main stops were the War Remnants Museum and the Cu Chi Tunnels- both worthwhile! To be honest, I knew next to nothing about the Vietnam War (they call it the American War here) before I arrived, and it was quite eye-opening. I'm told the museum information is quite biased in favor of the Vietnamese, but nevertheless it was an interesting (and disturbing) visit.

After the big city, I spent 3 nights at a beautiful, relaxed hostel in Mui Ne, soaking up the surf, sand, and sun...that is, I got very sunburnt. But it was really nice.

Then I moved on to the cool mountain clime in Dalat. It was a beautiful relief to feel a brisk breeze on my skin, and to actually have the desire to put more clothes on, and curl up under a warm blanket at night!!! While in Dalat, I visited the famous Crazy House, went Canyoning (photos to come), climbed Liang Biang Mountain, and visited a Monastery. The last two events were only made possible by inviting myself to join a group that are motorbiking down Vietnam (I am actually so jealous). I absolutely love riding on the back of the bike through the small village streets- you see SO much more of the country, and you have so much more freedom. The only thing really stopping me from joining their number is the amount of backpackers I've met with motorbike "war wounds". I'll leave the driving to others...for now.

I stayed at a hostel reccommended to me by a friend from Kamloops that visited Vietnam a few years back. Its called The Dalat Family Hostel, and it was SUCH an experience! The vietnamese family that runs the hostel are absolutely nuts- "Mama" sings, claps, hugs, and kisses you when you arrive, you are fed immediately, the "brothers" and "sisters" (are they actually family? I will never know) randomly hug you and pinch your cheek, or throw their arms over your shoulders while you are sitting around...everyone eats a huge dinner around the family table at 5 every night...its the best food...the BEST. I slept in the attic, where there are all different levels, and about 15 mattersses around the floor. It looks like the ultimate slumber party of your dreams! It was so much fun, and also just ridiculous!

Anyway, today I am in transit to the small village of Tuy Hoa, and I've had a couple hours to get some internet time in. This evening I will take a train for the first time- it was an early start this morning, so I'm already tired and can't wait to just arrive and get settled in.

I will get more photos up soon, but until then...instagram. :)

Chill Time

Its a common misconception that "traveling" is a "vacation".
This is false.

Vacations are when you leave your regular routine to rest and relax, forget your everyday worries, and basically not stress about the day-to-day problems of life.

Traveling means you are willfully placing yourself in different, often stressful, situations daily, where nothing is familiar to you and you must constantly absorb new information and problem solve things that at home you would never even think twice about. For instance, how to ask what a bottle of water costs...when there is no price label, and the clerk speaks a diffeent language. And then figuring out which of your bills you need to produce, and how much change you should be getting, when the currency is completely strange to you and in denominations of 1000's.

Besides the usual challenges of budget restrictions, city and transit navigation, and finding a places to sleep, eat, and sightsee, there are the differences of culture and language to figure out.

On top of all this, for the last week or so I have been visiting two major cities with really depressing histories: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon), Vietnam. I couldn't NOT visit their museums on the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnam War, repectively. I'm glad I went, but they were quite depressing, and I left feeling sickened and heavy-hearted.

Deciding it was time for a "vacation" during my travels, I caught a bus to the seaside resort town of Mui Ne, and booked into one of the few available hostels. It turned out to be not my usual digs- its got a beautiful pool, clean bathrooms, comfortable single beds, hot showers, and a restaurant/bar with a 12-hour-long "happy hour"! The hip, modern vibe runs contrary to the falling-apart, cheapest-bed-on-the-block, grungy backpacker dives I've been enjoying for most of the trip.

But for right now, its perfect. I spent today burning on the beach, swimming in the sea, eating and drinking at the hostel, and catching up on online stuff. I didn't worry about getting all the sightseeing in, or meeting people (though I did hang out in the morning), or finding the cheapest authentic roadside foods. I even had a nap, and I haven't spoken to anyone since after 2pm.

Its been exceptionally restful.
I'm looking forward to repeating the performance tomorrow...

More Thoughts on Cambodia

As I've been spending a bit of time reflecting on my time in Cambodia, I feel like I only told half the story in my last post. The highlights were many, but Cambodia is a country far from perfection.

The poverty and pain for much of the population is starkly evident immediately upon crossing the border. Only main roads are paved, and even those are rough and pot-holed. The rest is just red dirt and mud, with garbage scattered everywhere, and built up on the sides. The cars are old and run down, passengers riding anywhere they can keep hold. Entire families cluster in the back of pickup trucks, and young men ride atop huge commercial vehicles barrelling down the roads at full speed. Motorbikes and scooters hum and weave through the traffic like a swarm of wasps, honking at everything that might cross its path, or even come close.

Phnom Penh was by far the most shocking of the cities and towns I visited.

The sidewalks are cobbled together with broken tiles, garbage, and mud puddles. Gathered at various corners are worn and weathered moto-taxi drivers, who call out and raise an arm each time you pass by, "hellooo lady! Where you going? Tuk tuk?".
Hammocks are strung up between scraggly trees planted optimistically along the rideside, their residents swinging listlessy throughout the day. Others sprawl out on public benches, halfdressed in rags, an arm over their faces, obviously suffering the after-effects of too much cheap alcohol. Most heart-breaking of all are the mothers squatting on dirty bamboo mats on the side of busy roads, watching over their toddlers and babies sleeping naked beside them.

There are also many Cambodians who are disfigured and disabled due to landmines, torture during the Khmer Rouge, and sometimes the toxic Agent Orange chemical which was used by the USA during the Vietnam War. Many are missing arms and legs, or thier limbs are twisted and virtually useless. Its very hard not to feel like a total POS when they literally crawl up to you, begging for money. Its extremely sad, and there are so many...it feels like there is nothing you can do.

I visited Tuol Sleng Museum, also known as Security Prison 21 (S-21) during the Khmer Rouge regime during the 70's. If you ever wish to be depressed, a visit to this place is a good way to go about it. This brief, yet bloody, period of Cambodian history leaves most of us asking how people can do something so horrific to each other, and most of all- why?
I declined the follow-up visit to the famous Killing Fields, one of the many sites with mass graves. Thousands of bodies have been found there, and the evidence is still visible. To be honest, I couldn't stomach it, and I didn't feel like the point needed to be driven home any further.
The Khmer Rouge killed over 1.7 million Cambodia people (a significant portion of the population) from 1975-1979, systematically murdering the wealthiest, and most educated first, in order to suppress any kind of rebellion that might arise. This has seriously impaired any sort of rebuilding of the culture and country. The younger generation must literally start from scratch, but they have been raised by an entire nation dealing with severe trauma. Its a dismal and desperate situation.

Bearing these difficulties in mind, its not hard to understand why many Cambodians may be unsmiling and come across as unfriendly or even aggressive in their pursuit of your tourist cash, though it doesn't make the experience more pleasant.

However, I have encountered a few individuals who really gave me perspective; one was the teacher I mentioned that I met on the bus to Kampong Cham. He stepped in to help me with a confusing transit situation, and then we chatted about the challenges facing Cambodia, and his optimism and pride for his country was quite inspiring.

My guide during my jungle trek in Sen Monorom was a young man from a local Indigenous village; cheerful, industrious, and ambitious. Only a couple years ago, he lived and worked on his family's farm. When he was given the opportunity to work as a driver for a local guesthouse, he began to pick up both the Cambodian and English languages. Soon he was invited to work at the guesthouse restraurant as a server, where his language skills improved. By the time he was guiding our tour, he had only been speaking English for a year, and guiding for only a month! I was so impressed by how much English he knew, and how he has so quickly begun to start a life for himself. He told me he wants to work for a year to save money and then go to the local English school to learn more, and eventually go to Phnom Penh to see the big city. He has never left the Mondulkiri province in his entire life, and he dreams of seeing Siem Reap and Angkor Wat for himself one day.

Another was a random chat with a girl working in a cafe I stopped in. She seemed anxious to talk, and her story was a sad one. I listened to her summarized life story, and answered her questions about my own life- we are about the same age, but our worlds seem so different. Despite her trials, she is working hard and hopes to improve her life. She told me in her simple English that our conversation made her feel happier and more optimistic...at first I had been a bit cautious, wondering if this was some kind of scam in which I would be asked for money or something, cynic that I am, but when it went no further I felt humbled. Maybe in a country where everyone has huge problems, people just need someone to listen to them.

These conversations with ordinary, everyday Cambodians stand out to me as bright spots in what might otherwise seem like a depressing and discouraging situation.
From what I have heard, Cambodia is a country that is changing fast- I sincerely hope that it goes the direction that these 3 would take it.

Farewell, Cambodia!

I've been wandering through the land of all things Khmer for 2 weeks now! Starting in Siem Reap for a sunrise at Angkor Wat (of course), I had some adventures taking a "direct" bus to Kampong Cham for one night as a pit stop on my way to the riverside town of Kratie to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphins, and then moved on to the mountains and jungles of the Eastern border in Sen Monorom. After some time there enjoying the cooler climate and green space, I finished up my last couple days here in the hustling, bustling capital city of Phnom Pehn.
I'm sure other travelers will chastise me for passing up the entire South coast, but in my defense the next 2 week's weather forecast is rain, rain, rain...and I will get plenty of beach time elsewhere, I'm sure.

Some highlights from Cambodia include:

-Angkor Wat & Ta Prohm temples: so beautiful and a dream come true.

-Accidentally missing a turn on our way back from Angkor Wat, and ending up cycling madly though the insane trafffic on Siem Reap's main street. Adrenaline rush!

-Meeting a very kind and helpful Cambodian teacher on the bus to Kampong Cham, and chatting with him about all things Cambodia.

-Trying all sorts of delicious foods, like Amok, Banana Flower Salad, spicy stir-fried frog, random street foods, fruit shakes, curries, and a traditional stew made inside a bamboo stalk over a fire!

-Riding on the back of a motorbike taxi through tiny villages- beautiful scenery, and so much fun! Now I want a motorbike :)

-Meeting some elephants at a wildlife sanctuary in Sen Monorom! They were amazing, and I feel so lucky to have been able to get up close and personal with them!

-Visiting the Daughters of Cambodia Visitor Center in Phnom Pehn, a really awesome NGO which enables girls to leave the sex trade and regain control and dignity in their lives! It was really cool, and I spent a long time there, getting my feet pampered in their spa, eating and drinking delicious things in their cafe, and making a few purchases of their handmade goods in the shop!

-And of course, my very favorite thing about traveling (ok, maybe tied with the food...): I have met some seriously wonderful people and made friends from all over the world. Its crazy that you can just spend a few hours or days with someone and connect so well, because you have a common interest and love of traveling. But this is the thing I look forward to most, and that really makes traveling the best ever. And I just realized I need to start taking more photos of these people! haha :)

On that note, I'm looking into "couchsurfing: round 2" for my stay in Ho Chi Minh City...hoping somethings works out!

So ya...onward to Vietnam tomorrow morning! Wahoo!

10 Tips for a Successful Volunteer Abroad Experience (all the rest)

I realized I will literally never get around to writing about each tip indivdually now that I'm on the move...maybe that's for the best! Less rambling.
Without further ado, tips #3-#10.

3.Come prepared

Since you've taken the earlier tips into account and you've done your homework, you will know what your volunteering position will entail! This will help you know how to prepare. Do as much as you can ahead of time, ie: if you're teaching, research lesson plans and teaching tips. If you're working with kids, look up games that are easy to teach across the language barrier. Bring as much material as you can- its surprisingly difficult to find things once you are abroad!

4. Learn the language

I made the mistake of thinking I would just learn the basic phrases once I arrived, and then wished I had made the effort to work on them before! Learning the language is a great way to connect with the locals and people you come in contact with, and it also shows a willingness to embrace their culture and put yourself on their level, rather than expecting everyone to cater to you. People appreciate the effort and are usually patient and willng to engage with you even if your pronunciation is atrocious! My taxi drivers were far friendlier with me when I started using my "taxi Thai". It was very, very basic, but it was better than hopping in and expecting them to understand English. Also, making a bit of a fool of myself encouraged the women I worked with because they saw that I struggled to learn their language as much as they struggled to learn English!

5. Stay positive

No matter how many times you travel, there is always going to be some element of culture shock when you volunteer, and there are many times when you might feel a bit despairing about the effectiveness of your volunteer efforts. Remember that its completely normal to go through a phase of anxiety, frustration, and even hostility towards the country, city, and people that seem so strange and sometimes "backwards". Try to stay positive and remember that you came to experience the world in a new way, that things are "different", but not "wrong". Eventually you will start to understand a new normal, and the new place will not seem so threatening. 

6. Be flexible and patient

Closely tied to staying positive is the concious effort to be flexible and patient. Volunteering abroad is rarely what we expect it to be, and it rarely runs in a way that Westerners are used to. Often it seems inefficient, disorganized, and occasionally chaotic! Remember that not all cultures run on tight schedules- I've often been in situations where I was waiting around, or thought "there has been loads of time to prepare for this, why is no one ready yet?". Also, you may be asked to do things you didn't sign up for- rather than resist something unexpected, just embrace the new adventure! Rather than getting frustrated because something is not what you think it should be, strive to be open to something new. Having a sense of humor and going with the flow will bring down unnecessary stress levels, and enhance your volunteer experience. 

7. Expect to be uncomfortable

I think our expectations of our volunteer experiences are often quite vague, but we kind of think that it will be all warm-fuzzies and simple, straight-forward work. This usually not the case. Entering a new culture and a new volunteer situation both fall outside most of our comfort zones, just like going to a new school or starting a new job. There are new social rules to learn and adapt to, and it can be exhausting and uncomfortable until you "settle in". Understand that its going to be a while before you adapt to a new normal, and make friends.

8. Bring Items to Share

I always forget this! Bring some small souveniers from home, postcards of your hometown, photos of your family, things like that. Locals are curious about your life, and its also nice to have something to give away as a thank-you or parting gift. Gifts of candy and money are discouraged for children. I have some Canada flag pencils that I have been giving away to some of the children I have met. Its a small thing, but useful, and the kids are thrilled to get them!

9. Communicate with the staff regularly

Its important to keep the lines of communication open with the staff of your volunteering agency. They usually have a pretty good idea of the things you will struggle with, they are great sources of information for tips and tricks on local life and travel, and they can help solve the small day to day problems and explain cultural differences. If you don't ask or don't inform them of the issues that arise, they can't do their job. Don't expect them to be mind-readers, but do expect them to want to help! 

10. Stay Humble

I will be the first to admit, sometimes when I think of volunteering abroad I get the mental image of the smiling, fulfilled white person surrounded by the grateful, adoring non-white children...arrogant, right? Totally. Yet we've all seen the photos, and they lurk in our subconscious when we sign up for these things. We think we are going to save the world by "selflessly" sacrificing our time and money. We think that because we have paid for this experience, we should be thanked and admired by everyone. They should be in awe of our generosity. And I don't think we often realize that this is hidden in our thought processes until we realize just how useless we are, and how little we can do! I have thought, and have heard said by others, "I feel like it doesn't matter if I'm here or not. I feel like no one cares if I show up. I don't feel like I'm making a difference". (This usually is quite an overwhelming experience within the first week or two).

On one hand, this is a little bit true! As newbies to the culture and language, we can be fairly uselss! But on the other hand, volunteering is what you bring to it. If you come in knowing that you may not save the world, but you might make a small positive difference in a couple lives, you will have a much better experience! Staying humble might mean realizing that its up to you to find ways to make a difference...its not going to just magically happen by showing up. It might not change the entire world...but it might change one person's world, and that's pretty awesome.


I highly reccommend volunteering abroad (but volunteering at home would be cool too!), and I think its a valuable experience that really brings a lot of perspective to our lives. Its my hope that these tips will help you prepare for and enjoy a future volunteer trip!
If you have already been volunteering abroad, I would love to hear what you think...what was your experience, and would these tips have been helpful to you?