The Lovely South of Thailand

Greetings from the Southern Islands of Thailand!

The warm weather is everything I dreamed it would be, and it feels overdue by a long shot. Since hitting Northern Vietnam in December I have barely broken a weather-induced sweat once. Was I crazy to think that my 6 months in SE Asia would all be warm and sunny? Apparently.

However, now everything is as it should be.

I bussed down to Bangkok on February 8 to meet my dear friend Rishelle, who was flying in to spend 2 weeks of her vacation with me! We made our way South to Hua Hin, a nice seaside town, intent upon visiting The Wildlife Friends Foundation of Thailand, an animal rescue sanctuary reccommended to me by some fellow travelers who had spent some time volunteering there.

It was very cool to visit and see all the different animals there, from lizards, to birds, to monkeys, to bears...and elephants! The animals have each been rescued from different sad scenarios within Thailand. Exotic animals are an effective money-making strategy here. Tourists dont think twice about going to the tiger temple for a selfie with a drugged up wildcat, or riding an elephant that has been abused its whole life. It is really sad, and hearing the stories of the individual rescued aniamls is pretty heartbreaking. It was encouraging that WFFT is really working hard to educate locals and tourists on how damaging this industry is to the wildlife of Thailand (and other imported creatures). Often it is just a matter of not realizing how much the animals suffer.

WFFT works to rehabilitiate and release every animal for whom this is realistic possibility, but others are very human dependent and/or incapable of living in the wild. These animals will spend the rest of their lives in enclosures at the sanctuary, as close to a "normal" life as possible.

Our full-day tour of the center was very enjoyable and a highlight of our to weeks together. I would definitely recommend it to anyone, especially those wanting to get up close to the amazing creatures of Thailand without supporting the sketchy, abusive animal tourism industry.

After Hua Hin, we jetted our way to Koh Phangan for some serious beach time. We stayed on the North end of the island for the first few days in an amazing jungle bungalow just on the end of Thong Nai Pan Yai- super peaceful and quiet, and at a surprisingly reasonable price!


We spent one night in Haad Rin to get a teensy taste of what the Full Moon Party might be like, and then quickly scooted over to Sanctuary; a super hippie resort on a remote stretch of beach along the East coast of the island. The breezy establishment was wreathed in a haze of incense, and populated by tanned, toned, and tattooed waifs either meditating or detoxing (or both), bright green fresh veggie juices in hand. The dress code followed something like, "wear as little as possible, but if you must wear something, make sure it floats in the breeze, and throw some flowers in your hair".  The cheapest accommodation available to us was in the dorm room located above the restraunt, where we camped out on thin mattresses and fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing on the short just outside our window. Naturally I loved it there, and we both enjoyed some yoga, vegetarian food, and of course some top-notch people watching!

After a few days we felt sufficiently zen to move on to face the big island of Koh Samui, staying in the center close to the Chaweng beach. Here we took a moto taxi to see a waterfall (3 of us on one tiny moped!), rented paddleboards (so fun!), and were intiiated into our first Thai massage! I am now addicted. Paying less than $15/hr for a massage is such a good deal, and they really dont go easy on you. It is almost half chiropractic adjustment haha!

Unfortuantely, that was the end of our vacation together, and Rishelle had to head back to Bangkok from Samui. I stuck around another day or two to see Ang Thong National park, and then had a very long day of travel to the other side of the mainland, arrving at Koh Lanta.

Now I am enjoying the soft sandy beaches and roasting hot sunshine for a few more days before I head south again, and enter Malaysia! Im not sure what I will find there, but Im excited to find out! I can feel the end of my journey creepiing up on me. I'm working on a few things for when I return "home", and Im trying to wrap my mind around not being on the road anymore. I still have a little over a month though, so it might be a bit early to mourn the end ;-) 

Life in Vietnam

Hard to believe I've been in Vietnam for a week already!
There was almost immediate culture shock going from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City...the contrasts in wealth and modernity are stark. Vietnam's southern metropolis is a vibrant, buzzing city with some sleek skypscrapers and a fashionably-dressed younger population.
The French colonial influence is easilly spotted in the city center, where the architecture is extremely European, and Chanel and Dior shops line the immaculate streets.
Scooters are the transit option of choice here in Vietnam, and at all times of day they zip along the streets, weaving wildly...they literally never have a red light. Only cars have to stop at red lights. To cross the street is to take your life in your hands.

I spent 2 nights in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, since I was already all city-ed out after Phnom Penh. My main stops were the War Remnants Museum and the Cu Chi Tunnels- both worthwhile! To be honest, I knew next to nothing about the Vietnam War (they call it the American War here) before I arrived, and it was quite eye-opening. I'm told the museum information is quite biased in favor of the Vietnamese, but nevertheless it was an interesting (and disturbing) visit.

After the big city, I spent 3 nights at a beautiful, relaxed hostel in Mui Ne, soaking up the surf, sand, and sun...that is, I got very sunburnt. But it was really nice.

Then I moved on to the cool mountain clime in Dalat. It was a beautiful relief to feel a brisk breeze on my skin, and to actually have the desire to put more clothes on, and curl up under a warm blanket at night!!! While in Dalat, I visited the famous Crazy House, went Canyoning (photos to come), climbed Liang Biang Mountain, and visited a Monastery. The last two events were only made possible by inviting myself to join a group that are motorbiking down Vietnam (I am actually so jealous). I absolutely love riding on the back of the bike through the small village streets- you see SO much more of the country, and you have so much more freedom. The only thing really stopping me from joining their number is the amount of backpackers I've met with motorbike "war wounds". I'll leave the driving to others...for now.

I stayed at a hostel reccommended to me by a friend from Kamloops that visited Vietnam a few years back. Its called The Dalat Family Hostel, and it was SUCH an experience! The vietnamese family that runs the hostel are absolutely nuts- "Mama" sings, claps, hugs, and kisses you when you arrive, you are fed immediately, the "brothers" and "sisters" (are they actually family? I will never know) randomly hug you and pinch your cheek, or throw their arms over your shoulders while you are sitting around...everyone eats a huge dinner around the family table at 5 every night...its the best food...the BEST. I slept in the attic, where there are all different levels, and about 15 mattersses around the floor. It looks like the ultimate slumber party of your dreams! It was so much fun, and also just ridiculous!

Anyway, today I am in transit to the small village of Tuy Hoa, and I've had a couple hours to get some internet time in. This evening I will take a train for the first time- it was an early start this morning, so I'm already tired and can't wait to just arrive and get settled in.

I will get more photos up soon, but until then...instagram. :)

Chill Time

Its a common misconception that "traveling" is a "vacation".
This is false.

Vacations are when you leave your regular routine to rest and relax, forget your everyday worries, and basically not stress about the day-to-day problems of life.

Traveling means you are willfully placing yourself in different, often stressful, situations daily, where nothing is familiar to you and you must constantly absorb new information and problem solve things that at home you would never even think twice about. For instance, how to ask what a bottle of water costs...when there is no price label, and the clerk speaks a diffeent language. And then figuring out which of your bills you need to produce, and how much change you should be getting, when the currency is completely strange to you and in denominations of 1000's.

Besides the usual challenges of budget restrictions, city and transit navigation, and finding a places to sleep, eat, and sightsee, there are the differences of culture and language to figure out.

On top of all this, for the last week or so I have been visiting two major cities with really depressing histories: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon), Vietnam. I couldn't NOT visit their museums on the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnam War, repectively. I'm glad I went, but they were quite depressing, and I left feeling sickened and heavy-hearted.

Deciding it was time for a "vacation" during my travels, I caught a bus to the seaside resort town of Mui Ne, and booked into one of the few available hostels. It turned out to be not my usual digs- its got a beautiful pool, clean bathrooms, comfortable single beds, hot showers, and a restaurant/bar with a 12-hour-long "happy hour"! The hip, modern vibe runs contrary to the falling-apart, cheapest-bed-on-the-block, grungy backpacker dives I've been enjoying for most of the trip.

But for right now, its perfect. I spent today burning on the beach, swimming in the sea, eating and drinking at the hostel, and catching up on online stuff. I didn't worry about getting all the sightseeing in, or meeting people (though I did hang out in the morning), or finding the cheapest authentic roadside foods. I even had a nap, and I haven't spoken to anyone since after 2pm.

Its been exceptionally restful.
I'm looking forward to repeating the performance tomorrow...

Regis Broke Free

My brother asked me, "Is Regis coming along to Southeast Asia with you?"

Regis, anticipating the climb up Roraima, Venezuela.

Alas, I cannot escape the hard truth any longer. I've been putting it out of my mind. 

I am faced with the profound question Nelly Furtado once asked: "Why do all good things come to an end?".

Triumphant at the Summit

Regis has broken free once and for all.

Regis at Angel Falls (Venezuela), the highest waterfall in the world!

As I have said before, he has always been a free spirit. He enjoyed life on the road, and he met a lot of people and saw things many monkeys will only dream of seeing.

Day 2 of the Inca Trail, hitting the highest altitude of the trek.

He was with me as I set off on my own last December, trekked the Inca Trail, and witnessed Machu Picchu.

Going where few monkeys have gone before!

 For every journey, he was there.

Sightseeing in Cusco

At the summit of Pacha Mama, Lake Titticaca

We had our differences, I once or twice I feared that something would come between us for good. But we stuck together through the cold and damp of Peru, and the sweltering humidity of Venezeula.

Marveling over Moray

Swooning over Salineras

I even gave him a traditional Peruvian woolly hat. Because monkeys don't like to be cold.

Overlooking the lake city of Guatape, Colombia. My last photo of Regis. 

 I still have the hat. He left it behind. Just like me.

Reaching Tayrona National Park in Colombia was a turning point for us. I didn't realize it at the time. We had been on the road for a while, both tuckered out. I planned to get some serious R&R while chilling at this remote, tropical paradise. 

Perhaps this was why I failed to notice the change in him. I was too busy with my own plans and feelings. But looking back, it makes sense.

When I think of Tayrona, it is really just the ideal location for a monkey. As a National Park, it is very safe. The white sandy beach and turquoise waters are surrounded by thick jungle, filled with other monkeys. I saw a few of them...maybe it was then, while I was distracted, that he slipped away.

I know he was there when we arrived, and I remember thinking "Tomorrow I will take a photo of Regis on the beach", and brought him along on a hike through the Jungle. Unfortunately, then my camera broke, and I tucked him away in my daypack. Perhaps he saw his rellies frolicking in the treetops, and considered the warm breeze and swinging hammocks that were abundant in that wonderful place. Perhaps then he thought of how we were headed for the snow-capped mountains of Quito, and then, ultimately, the far North: Canada. 

Perhaps he weighed his options, and decided he would like to stay. 

I never saw him again. 

On my last day, as I packed my things, he was nowhere to be found. Nothing else was missing from my pack. I searched frantically through the entire beach site, even enlisting the help of a sympathetic friend. But Regis was gone. 

Eventually I had to face the facts, pack my things, and hike back without him. It felt a bit callous that he never even said goodbye, but I understand. After all, I also felt like I could stay in Tayrona forever. Its that kind of place. It was bound to happen sooner or later, and at least I know he is happy, enjoying the sort of lifestyle that suits monkeys best. 

It will be a bit lonely not to have him along as I travel SE Asia, but the blog will live on bearing the name of this inspiring free spirit. 

Goodbye Regis. Roam free. 

Summer Adventures in Oregon

Last December, my friend Julie and I decided we needed to go on a roadtrip together the following summer. We met at the treeplanting camp I worked in my first two seasons, and since she lives only 4 hours away we have been able to work in a few visits now and then. 

Our destination became Oregon...we didn't plan it out much, just that we wanted to see Cannon Beach and Portland at some point. We hopped into Leroy, the faithful '86 VW Westfalia I call home during the planting season, and tootled off down South early this past August. 

Our first stop was Seattle, which I had never seen before! We visited the usual tourist hot-spots...Pike Place Market, the first Starbucks, and the Gum Wall, as well as a tasty cheese shop where we bought expensive fancy cheeses and devoured it. 

We didn't get to see the fish-throwing guys!

They only threw the fish when our backs were turned. Its a conspiracy.

I bought some delicious basil & garlic flavored GF pasta at the farmers market, which I realized after the fact was extremely expensive due to the weak Canadian dollar. Oh well. It was tasty...

The Gum Wall. For some reason people have been sticking their chewed gum in this alley for years. I bought into it, and a wad of my gum now resides there as well. This is weird, disgusting, and strangely fascinating. 

After Seattle we drove around the Olympic Penisula in Washington, stopping briefly in Forks to satisfy Julie's old adolescent desire to pilgrimage to the setting of her beloved Twilight. It was worthwhile because the coastal drive near Kalaloch was stunning! 

Arriving on a Friday, we were lucky to secure the very last available camping spot in town! The location was ideal, within minutes of walking to Cannon Beach and all the cute shops downtown. We had a great time there. 

 The day we arrive was windy and rainy, which I think is pretty usual for the Oregon Coast, but the Saturday was gorgeous hot weather. We threw down a picnic blanket on the beach and enjoyed a sunny afternoon, fending seagulls away from our snacks.

In the evening the tide went down to its lowest point, and we went back to the beach to explore and get close to the striking "monolith". It was a beautiful scene at sunset, and I couldn't stop taking photos...

After visiting Cannon Beach, we stopped by Ecola State Park, about 15 minutes drive North from the town, and hiked the trails for a few hours. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, and we had another beautiful day for it. 

Once we had worked up an appetite, we headed further South to Tillamook to sample the delicious products at the Tillamook Dairy Co-op. It was a worthwhile endeavor, though after eating ice cream, yogurt, and various flavors of cheese, our bodies were begging for a break! (I regret nothing)

Portland included a few important stops: Voodoo Donuts (of which I was unable to partake, but I fully supported)...

 ...and Powell's Books: the largest independent bookstore in the world! It takes up a full city block, has three floors, and a store map. Needless to say, these two booknerds were incredibly happy and spent far more money than they should have.

 

 Overall, it was a very satisfying trip, and I had so much fun exploring with a wonderful friend!
Hope you enjoyed the photos!

Newfie Land

From North Sydney, Nova Scotia, we drove the trusty Grand Prix onto the ferry for a very expensive 5 hour crossing to Port Au Basques, Newfoundland. 

In Corner Brook we stopped at the Crown & Moose pub for dinner. Though I've always been resistant to seafood, I decided that it was important to try the local cuisine: Classic fish n chips made gluten free without the battering of the fish..haha. But it was delicious! I was impressed with everything but the mushy discolored veggies. We learned that fresh veggies are really not all that fresh in Newfoundland, and they can be pretty expensive too!

Gros Morne National Park promised an epic hike, but delivered an easy boardwalk. 

It was still beautiful!

We had a beautiful day for photos and exploring the outdoors!

For a hefty price (we were not willing to pay) you can ride the ferry out to the cliffs for an amazing view. 

We passed a teensy tiny community quaintly named "Sally's Cove" on our way back from the park.
It was the picture-perfect Newfoundland site, so we were really embarrassingly touristy and jumped out of the car from some photo ops.

Next stop was a pull-out on our way to Rocky Harbour. We walked down to the beach to explore and dip our toes in the Atlantic!

These red chairs were everywhere!

We stopped in Rocky Harbour for a bite to eat. It was a little more touristy, but still cute.

We headed in the direction of Gander that evening, stopping along the highway at sunset.
Fly fishers were out enjoying the beautiful weather. 

Katharina and Mal both had fancy schmancy cameras and a good eye for photography. 

This beautiful beach was so calm and peaceful in the morning. 

A community dock.

Rugged Newfoundland scenery along the highway on the way to St. John's. 

It was so fun to see the "Jellybean Houses" downtown St. John's! 

They really reminded me of Ireland, though you'd never see an SUV there ;)

This house was unreal ugly...but awesome!

We spent quite a lot of time in the downtown center, browsing the shops, eating, and sight-seeing.

In the evening we decided to hit up the (in)famous George Street...a tiny section tucked away in a far corner of the city dedicated entirely to bars and clubs! 

We decided it was imperative to our Canadian experience to be officially "Screeched In", so we popped into O' Reilly's Irish pub for a couple of drinks and asked one of the servers to perform the ceremony for us! What is involved, you ask? In order for it to be official you need a Newfie to preside over the following: you must kiss a cod fish, recite the Newfie's creed, and take a shot of Screech rum. The order of events may vary.

This horrifying specimen had been frozen specifically to render this service to ridiculous tourists such as myself. I had flashbacks to the revolting tradition of kissing the Blarney stone.

The Newfie's Creed goes something like this...you are asked, "Are ye a Screecher?" and you must answer,

"'Deed I is, me ol' cock! And long may yer big jib draw!" 

Simple, right? WRONG. At the time it was quite difficult to remember and say. Hmmm...

However, three of us completed the ceremony and I have the certificate to prove it!
We're honorary Newfies!

To celebrate our accomplishments we wandered to the Karaoke Kops, where Mal impressed the staff with her rendition of Journey's "Don't Stop Believin'", and we all enjoyed a few duets from Kat and Mal. I almost, almost considered busting out some Backstreet Boys "I Want it That Way", but even Screech rum has its limits. 

The best part of the evening definitely came in the form of gluten-free pulled pork poutine from Smoke's Poutinerie. Ever since I missed out on the Montreal Poutine experience, I had been craving some good ol' fries, gravy, and cheese curds. Smoke's Triple Pork Poutine was even better than I could ever have imagined! I unabashedly admit to devouring the entire portion.