Well, those last 3 weeks went really quickly!!!
I blame my lack of blog updates on a number of factors.
1) the internet connections in Myanmar suck.
2) Google has conspired against my blogger account and made signing in more difficult and time-consuming than it was worth.
3) sheer laziness.
But, I have been posting lots of photos on instagram for you (#jillgoesbackpacking), and I find myself with a decent wifi connection and a lovely balcony overlooking the river and mountains of Hpa-An on my last evening in this beautiful country...so I will take some time to relect on some of the most memorable and unique parts of Myanmar.
1. The Longyi (pronounced "LON-jee")
One of the first things you notice when you walk off the plane into the airport is the Longyi, which is essentially a traditional skirt worn by both men and women. The men wear more subdued hues of blue, green, brown, etc, and usually it has a plaid or striped pattern, while the women wear vivid colors and floral or more abstract designs. The Longyi is about 2 meters long and sewn into a tube shape. Whereas the men gather the fabric in front and tie it in a knot, the women tuck it to one side to make it more fitted, and slightly more restrictive.
It is quite a beautiful peice of clothing, and its easy to buy in the markets for very cheap. An economical longyi might be anywhere from 2000-3000 Kyat (roughly $2-3 CAD), but a better quality one made with silk or other expensive materials will cost you a lot more.
My Dutch friend bought herself a longyi in Bagan and the friendly guesthouse matron enthusiastically showed her how to wear it. I have also seen many male tourists embace the cool, breezy comfort while traveling through Myanmar! I asked one if he had someone show him how to tie it, as there appears to be different methods, and the men frequently undo the knots to straighten and adjust the cloth. He said yes, but when they showed him how to tie it by demonstrating on their own, he saw a lot more than he bargained for, since they don't wear any underwear underneath!
2. Thanaka
This is a thick yellowish paste made of some kind of bark. It is worn on the face primarily by women and children, and often in different designs (such as circles on the cheeks, or dots/stripes on the forehead and chin). Thanaka is multipurpose, used as sunscreen, a cosmetic, and as it is apparently very good for clearing the skin of blemishes! Some men do wear it, but our guide in Hsipaw explained that it is generally less socially acceptable for males (they might take some heckling about being gay, apparently) so they often only wear it at night to cleanse their skin under the cover of darkness!
3. Green Tea...with everything
Tea is a big part of Myanmar culture. It is grown here, and while you might have a tough time finding a bar or any kind of restraunt open past 9pm, tea shops are found on every corner at every hour. These adorable local establishments are easily spotted due to their tiny red plastic stools and wooden tables underneath an open-air shop with an awning covered in plastic advertising the local beer or whisky (which is kind of funny, since the real draw is the tea...). There is a thermos of green tea on every table, and it is generally free and served with absolutely everything. My friend and I ordered cappuccinos once, and we were served green tea while we waited!
4. Fermented Tea Leaf Salad
While we are on the subject of tea, there is a unique dish here in Myanmar made of tea leaves that I have grown quite fond of! It doesnt look like much more than some mushy green leaves mixed with a few random ingredients, but the flavor is great! Its a bit sour, but its kind of nice, like pickles. There are crunchy dried peas and beans, small diced onion, and sometimes tomato or other veggies. Its really tasty when mixed with rice...I might try to recreate it at home, if I can find the ingredients!
5. Betel Nut
One of the first things I noticed was a common habit the men (and some women) have of chewing some kind of (what I assumed was addictive) substance wrapped in a leaf. I have since learned that this is an areca nut, which is wrapped in a betel leaf painted with limestone and sprinkled with tobacco. It is chewed as a mild intoxicant/stimulant. The limestone is used to basically lacerate the gums to allow the stimulant to more easily enter the bloodstream, and it is easy to spot the heavy users. They sport a mouth of rotting red-stained teeth, and constantly have a cheekful of betel nut. And they spit everywhere. The streets are stained red...with betel juice. I'm not a fan.
6. Chinlon
The national sport in Myanmar is known as Chinlon. I first saw this in Laos, but its obviously much more popular here. This game is played by two teams with a total of 6 players, and a high net dividing them, similar to a volleyball court. However, each side attempts to knock a small woven rattan ball onto the opponents side using any part of their body except their arms and hands. Its quite amazing to watch, as they are very flexible and nimble, hitting the chinlon ball very hard with their feet, knees, and head. I have seen some female tourists (who have experience with soccer) join in, much to the amusement of the locals, since Myanmar girls dont play much (at least not in the small towns. The country does have a very good women's national team, though).
7. The Trishaw
The trishaw is a contraption I have seen everywhere in Myanmar, from the small villages to the big cities. Its essentially a huge tricycle with two side passenger seats; one facing forwards, one backwards! These look extremeley uncomfortable and slow, and the poor men who push them must have killer strong legs because there is certainly no gears of any kind on those things.
8. Christmas Lights...all year round.
I do not know what the Myanmar fascination with bright, colorful lights is about...but they are EVERYWHERE! In almost every temple, the Buddha is surrounded with a halo of gawdy, flashing lights like the circus has come to town, the clocktowers or landmark buildings in the center of town will almost certainly be lit up like a Christmas tree at night, and even the local buses have rainbow colored lights flashing around the windows (on the inside!). Its like a tacky trailer park that leaves up the holiday decorations year round. So ridiculous...but kind of hilarious and loveable.
9. Guesthouses and Breakfast
Tourism is relatively new in Myanmar, and compared to places like Thailand and Vietnam, its a lot more expensive for travelers. This means hostels haven't really been established here yet, so accommodation options are usually limited to guesthoues and hotels. The upside of these slightly pricier digs is that 9 times of out 10 you are served a free breakfast between 7-9am. Sometimes this means toast and tea, but most of the time we have had our bellies pleasantly filled with piping hot omlettes, shan noodles, samosas, or pancakes, and there is almost always some fruit served as well! I actually quite like starting my morning like this, rather than trying to scope out a cheap breakfast option along the road somewhere. I know...I'm lazy.
10. Buddhism
Myanmar is probably the most intensely religious SE Asian country I have been to. Buddhism permeates every aspect of the culture, and it is evident everywhere you look. From the monks and nuns of all ages that walk the streets, sometimes collecting alms, to the elaborate temples found on every corner, the morning readings of the Dhamma on the radio and tv, the random trucks with huge speakers blaring Buddhist chants, and the golden stupas spotting the countryside. Merit-making, or the performing of good deeds to improve your karma, motivates everything from keeping good hygiene to giving to the poor. Morning rituals of offering food and drink along with prayers at household shrines occurs regularly.
Most SE Asian countries profess Buddhism as their primary religion, but this is the first place where I have seen it taken to seriously by the general population. It has been very interesting to witness!
Unfortunately, tomorrow I leave Myanmar. It has been a marvellous 3 weeks here, and I am sad to leave, though I have a lot of look forward to in the next 3 weeks! Myanmar was certainly a one-of-a-kind experience, and I hope these 10 points gave you a little taste of what I have been seeing and living recently!
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Friday, 29 January 2016
Wednesday, 2 December 2015
Doing "Normal" Stuff in Da Nang
After spending way too much money on tailored clothing in Hoi An, I chilled out for 2 nights at a hostel in Da Nang and really did a lot of nothing.
Da Nang is a big-ish city about an hour from Hoi An, and its definitely a little more off the beaten track. There are some tourists that stay there and commute into Hoi An to avoid the higher accommodation and food prices in the Old Town, but walking around the city you definitely feel like you stick out as a white person! I got a lot of stares and occasionally a child would point at me!
I had to do some t-shirt shopping since I didnt pack very many and a few have been ruined along the course of the backpacking adventures. This was also an adventure. For one thing, Vietnamese women are TINY. At home I generally fit a size small or medium shirt, but here...I am a Large or XL! And sometimes they dont even carry those sizes! The upside is that clothing here is so much cheaper...I got 2 good quality shirts that I like for 50,000 VND each, which is roughly between $3-4 CAD.
The other thing was that I would walk into a store and the staff would just look at me and break into a shocked smile, like as if a clown had just burst in with noisemakers and a dance routine. Then they would drop everything and try to suggest things for me to wear- usually stuff I would not be caught dead in, and usually way too small. I think both of us were a little bewildered as to how to proceed. Eventually we would both give up, but it was quite sweet. When I did actually buy something, the one salesgirl who had followed me around told me in broken English that my purchase was very pretty.
Ordering food at a restraurant was an interesting experience! With no English translation, no English-speaking staff, and few photos to go on, I literally just pointed at something within my price range and hoped for the best! It turned out to be Ban Xeo, which is rice paper pancakes, fried omelets, and veggies served with peanut dip- the same dish I ate at Friendsgiving! Delicious.
I repeated the point-and-wait-for-a-surprise routine each time I ate out. Since I loved most Vietnamese food, this was generally quite successful.
On my last night in Da Nang I was feeling a bit nostaligc for home, and wanted to do something that felt normal. So I went to the movie theatre, and I watched The Hunger Games....yes, it was in English, with Vietnamese subtitles! I was the only white person in the entire mall/cinema, and definitely got a lot of curious stares and points. I was also the only solo female, and it turned out to be a date movie haha...Vietnamese couples everywhere! The plus side was that the movie theatre seats were the most comfortable I have ever had the joy of sitting in, and Ihad the most prime seat in the house, and no one sitting in front of me. And I enjoyed the movie, and had been looking forward to watching it for a long time. So...a successful night. I dont think I've ever watched a movie in theatres by myself before!
The only "normal" thing left to do, that I meant to accomplish there and didnt, is get a haircut! I am still too afraid to allow someone who doesn't speak my language to take the shears to my head. Its a situation that is quickly getting out of control, however. Between the humidity and just the sheer quanitity of hair that is accumulating on my head, I'm beginning to look like a crazy person. The bright tourist pants probably dont help.
Even though these "normal" activites still were different than they would be at home, it was strangely comforting to just go about the everyday things, rather than do tourist stuff. But now I'm back at it...spent a day in Hué exploring the historic citadel, and today I have arrived via tourist bus in Phong Nha, to pay ridiculous amounts of money for a touristy tour...but I think it will be cool, so I hope its worth it! We will see...
Da Nang is a big-ish city about an hour from Hoi An, and its definitely a little more off the beaten track. There are some tourists that stay there and commute into Hoi An to avoid the higher accommodation and food prices in the Old Town, but walking around the city you definitely feel like you stick out as a white person! I got a lot of stares and occasionally a child would point at me!
I had to do some t-shirt shopping since I didnt pack very many and a few have been ruined along the course of the backpacking adventures. This was also an adventure. For one thing, Vietnamese women are TINY. At home I generally fit a size small or medium shirt, but here...I am a Large or XL! And sometimes they dont even carry those sizes! The upside is that clothing here is so much cheaper...I got 2 good quality shirts that I like for 50,000 VND each, which is roughly between $3-4 CAD.
The other thing was that I would walk into a store and the staff would just look at me and break into a shocked smile, like as if a clown had just burst in with noisemakers and a dance routine. Then they would drop everything and try to suggest things for me to wear- usually stuff I would not be caught dead in, and usually way too small. I think both of us were a little bewildered as to how to proceed. Eventually we would both give up, but it was quite sweet. When I did actually buy something, the one salesgirl who had followed me around told me in broken English that my purchase was very pretty.
Ordering food at a restraurant was an interesting experience! With no English translation, no English-speaking staff, and few photos to go on, I literally just pointed at something within my price range and hoped for the best! It turned out to be Ban Xeo, which is rice paper pancakes, fried omelets, and veggies served with peanut dip- the same dish I ate at Friendsgiving! Delicious.
I repeated the point-and-wait-for-a-surprise routine each time I ate out. Since I loved most Vietnamese food, this was generally quite successful.
On my last night in Da Nang I was feeling a bit nostaligc for home, and wanted to do something that felt normal. So I went to the movie theatre, and I watched The Hunger Games....yes, it was in English, with Vietnamese subtitles! I was the only white person in the entire mall/cinema, and definitely got a lot of curious stares and points. I was also the only solo female, and it turned out to be a date movie haha...Vietnamese couples everywhere! The plus side was that the movie theatre seats were the most comfortable I have ever had the joy of sitting in, and Ihad the most prime seat in the house, and no one sitting in front of me. And I enjoyed the movie, and had been looking forward to watching it for a long time. So...a successful night. I dont think I've ever watched a movie in theatres by myself before!
The only "normal" thing left to do, that I meant to accomplish there and didnt, is get a haircut! I am still too afraid to allow someone who doesn't speak my language to take the shears to my head. Its a situation that is quickly getting out of control, however. Between the humidity and just the sheer quanitity of hair that is accumulating on my head, I'm beginning to look like a crazy person. The bright tourist pants probably dont help.
Even though these "normal" activites still were different than they would be at home, it was strangely comforting to just go about the everyday things, rather than do tourist stuff. But now I'm back at it...spent a day in Hué exploring the historic citadel, and today I have arrived via tourist bus in Phong Nha, to pay ridiculous amounts of money for a touristy tour...but I think it will be cool, so I hope its worth it! We will see...
Tuesday, 17 November 2015
Chill Time
Its a common misconception that "traveling" is a "vacation".
This is false.
Vacations are when you leave your regular routine to rest and relax, forget your everyday worries, and basically not stress about the day-to-day problems of life.
Traveling means you are willfully placing yourself in different, often stressful, situations daily, where nothing is familiar to you and you must constantly absorb new information and problem solve things that at home you would never even think twice about. For instance, how to ask what a bottle of water costs...when there is no price label, and the clerk speaks a diffeent language. And then figuring out which of your bills you need to produce, and how much change you should be getting, when the currency is completely strange to you and in denominations of 1000's.
Besides the usual challenges of budget restrictions, city and transit navigation, and finding a places to sleep, eat, and sightsee, there are the differences of culture and language to figure out.
On top of all this, for the last week or so I have been visiting two major cities with really depressing histories: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon), Vietnam. I couldn't NOT visit their museums on the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnam War, repectively. I'm glad I went, but they were quite depressing, and I left feeling sickened and heavy-hearted.
Deciding it was time for a "vacation" during my travels, I caught a bus to the seaside resort town of Mui Ne, and booked into one of the few available hostels. It turned out to be not my usual digs- its got a beautiful pool, clean bathrooms, comfortable single beds, hot showers, and a restaurant/bar with a 12-hour-long "happy hour"! The hip, modern vibe runs contrary to the falling-apart, cheapest-bed-on-the-block, grungy backpacker dives I've been enjoying for most of the trip.
But for right now, its perfect. I spent today burning on the beach, swimming in the sea, eating and drinking at the hostel, and catching up on online stuff. I didn't worry about getting all the sightseeing in, or meeting people (though I did hang out in the morning), or finding the cheapest authentic roadside foods. I even had a nap, and I haven't spoken to anyone since after 2pm.
Its been exceptionally restful.
I'm looking forward to repeating the performance tomorrow...
This is false.
Vacations are when you leave your regular routine to rest and relax, forget your everyday worries, and basically not stress about the day-to-day problems of life.
Traveling means you are willfully placing yourself in different, often stressful, situations daily, where nothing is familiar to you and you must constantly absorb new information and problem solve things that at home you would never even think twice about. For instance, how to ask what a bottle of water costs...when there is no price label, and the clerk speaks a diffeent language. And then figuring out which of your bills you need to produce, and how much change you should be getting, when the currency is completely strange to you and in denominations of 1000's.
Besides the usual challenges of budget restrictions, city and transit navigation, and finding a places to sleep, eat, and sightsee, there are the differences of culture and language to figure out.
On top of all this, for the last week or so I have been visiting two major cities with really depressing histories: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon), Vietnam. I couldn't NOT visit their museums on the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnam War, repectively. I'm glad I went, but they were quite depressing, and I left feeling sickened and heavy-hearted.
Deciding it was time for a "vacation" during my travels, I caught a bus to the seaside resort town of Mui Ne, and booked into one of the few available hostels. It turned out to be not my usual digs- its got a beautiful pool, clean bathrooms, comfortable single beds, hot showers, and a restaurant/bar with a 12-hour-long "happy hour"! The hip, modern vibe runs contrary to the falling-apart, cheapest-bed-on-the-block, grungy backpacker dives I've been enjoying for most of the trip.
But for right now, its perfect. I spent today burning on the beach, swimming in the sea, eating and drinking at the hostel, and catching up on online stuff. I didn't worry about getting all the sightseeing in, or meeting people (though I did hang out in the morning), or finding the cheapest authentic roadside foods. I even had a nap, and I haven't spoken to anyone since after 2pm.
Its been exceptionally restful.
I'm looking forward to repeating the performance tomorrow...
Sunday, 15 November 2015
More Thoughts on Cambodia
As I've been spending a bit of time reflecting on my time in Cambodia, I feel like I only told half the story in my last post. The highlights were many, but Cambodia is a country far from perfection.
The poverty and pain for much of the population is starkly evident immediately upon crossing the border. Only main roads are paved, and even those are rough and pot-holed. The rest is just red dirt and mud, with garbage scattered everywhere, and built up on the sides. The cars are old and run down, passengers riding anywhere they can keep hold. Entire families cluster in the back of pickup trucks, and young men ride atop huge commercial vehicles barrelling down the roads at full speed. Motorbikes and scooters hum and weave through the traffic like a swarm of wasps, honking at everything that might cross its path, or even come close.
Phnom Penh was by far the most shocking of the cities and towns I visited.
The sidewalks are cobbled together with broken tiles, garbage, and mud puddles. Gathered at various corners are worn and weathered moto-taxi drivers, who call out and raise an arm each time you pass by, "hellooo lady! Where you going? Tuk tuk?".
Hammocks are strung up between scraggly trees planted optimistically along the rideside, their residents swinging listlessy throughout the day. Others sprawl out on public benches, halfdressed in rags, an arm over their faces, obviously suffering the after-effects of too much cheap alcohol. Most heart-breaking of all are the mothers squatting on dirty bamboo mats on the side of busy roads, watching over their toddlers and babies sleeping naked beside them.
There are also many Cambodians who are disfigured and disabled due to landmines, torture during the Khmer Rouge, and sometimes the toxic Agent Orange chemical which was used by the USA during the Vietnam War. Many are missing arms and legs, or thier limbs are twisted and virtually useless. Its very hard not to feel like a total POS when they literally crawl up to you, begging for money. Its extremely sad, and there are so many...it feels like there is nothing you can do.
I visited Tuol Sleng Museum, also known as Security Prison 21 (S-21) during the Khmer Rouge regime during the 70's. If you ever wish to be depressed, a visit to this place is a good way to go about it. This brief, yet bloody, period of Cambodian history leaves most of us asking how people can do something so horrific to each other, and most of all- why?
I declined the follow-up visit to the famous Killing Fields, one of the many sites with mass graves. Thousands of bodies have been found there, and the evidence is still visible. To be honest, I couldn't stomach it, and I didn't feel like the point needed to be driven home any further.
The Khmer Rouge killed over 1.7 million Cambodia people (a significant portion of the population) from 1975-1979, systematically murdering the wealthiest, and most educated first, in order to suppress any kind of rebellion that might arise. This has seriously impaired any sort of rebuilding of the culture and country. The younger generation must literally start from scratch, but they have been raised by an entire nation dealing with severe trauma. Its a dismal and desperate situation.
Bearing these difficulties in mind, its not hard to understand why many Cambodians may be unsmiling and come across as unfriendly or even aggressive in their pursuit of your tourist cash, though it doesn't make the experience more pleasant.
However, I have encountered a few individuals who really gave me perspective; one was the teacher I mentioned that I met on the bus to Kampong Cham. He stepped in to help me with a confusing transit situation, and then we chatted about the challenges facing Cambodia, and his optimism and pride for his country was quite inspiring.
My guide during my jungle trek in Sen Monorom was a young man from a local Indigenous village; cheerful, industrious, and ambitious. Only a couple years ago, he lived and worked on his family's farm. When he was given the opportunity to work as a driver for a local guesthouse, he began to pick up both the Cambodian and English languages. Soon he was invited to work at the guesthouse restraurant as a server, where his language skills improved. By the time he was guiding our tour, he had only been speaking English for a year, and guiding for only a month! I was so impressed by how much English he knew, and how he has so quickly begun to start a life for himself. He told me he wants to work for a year to save money and then go to the local English school to learn more, and eventually go to Phnom Penh to see the big city. He has never left the Mondulkiri province in his entire life, and he dreams of seeing Siem Reap and Angkor Wat for himself one day.
Another was a random chat with a girl working in a cafe I stopped in. She seemed anxious to talk, and her story was a sad one. I listened to her summarized life story, and answered her questions about my own life- we are about the same age, but our worlds seem so different. Despite her trials, she is working hard and hopes to improve her life. She told me in her simple English that our conversation made her feel happier and more optimistic...at first I had been a bit cautious, wondering if this was some kind of scam in which I would be asked for money or something, cynic that I am, but when it went no further I felt humbled. Maybe in a country where everyone has huge problems, people just need someone to listen to them.
These conversations with ordinary, everyday Cambodians stand out to me as bright spots in what might otherwise seem like a depressing and discouraging situation.
From what I have heard, Cambodia is a country that is changing fast- I sincerely hope that it goes the direction that these 3 would take it.
The poverty and pain for much of the population is starkly evident immediately upon crossing the border. Only main roads are paved, and even those are rough and pot-holed. The rest is just red dirt and mud, with garbage scattered everywhere, and built up on the sides. The cars are old and run down, passengers riding anywhere they can keep hold. Entire families cluster in the back of pickup trucks, and young men ride atop huge commercial vehicles barrelling down the roads at full speed. Motorbikes and scooters hum and weave through the traffic like a swarm of wasps, honking at everything that might cross its path, or even come close.
Phnom Penh was by far the most shocking of the cities and towns I visited.
The sidewalks are cobbled together with broken tiles, garbage, and mud puddles. Gathered at various corners are worn and weathered moto-taxi drivers, who call out and raise an arm each time you pass by, "hellooo lady! Where you going? Tuk tuk?".
Hammocks are strung up between scraggly trees planted optimistically along the rideside, their residents swinging listlessy throughout the day. Others sprawl out on public benches, halfdressed in rags, an arm over their faces, obviously suffering the after-effects of too much cheap alcohol. Most heart-breaking of all are the mothers squatting on dirty bamboo mats on the side of busy roads, watching over their toddlers and babies sleeping naked beside them.
There are also many Cambodians who are disfigured and disabled due to landmines, torture during the Khmer Rouge, and sometimes the toxic Agent Orange chemical which was used by the USA during the Vietnam War. Many are missing arms and legs, or thier limbs are twisted and virtually useless. Its very hard not to feel like a total POS when they literally crawl up to you, begging for money. Its extremely sad, and there are so many...it feels like there is nothing you can do.
I visited Tuol Sleng Museum, also known as Security Prison 21 (S-21) during the Khmer Rouge regime during the 70's. If you ever wish to be depressed, a visit to this place is a good way to go about it. This brief, yet bloody, period of Cambodian history leaves most of us asking how people can do something so horrific to each other, and most of all- why?
I declined the follow-up visit to the famous Killing Fields, one of the many sites with mass graves. Thousands of bodies have been found there, and the evidence is still visible. To be honest, I couldn't stomach it, and I didn't feel like the point needed to be driven home any further.
The Khmer Rouge killed over 1.7 million Cambodia people (a significant portion of the population) from 1975-1979, systematically murdering the wealthiest, and most educated first, in order to suppress any kind of rebellion that might arise. This has seriously impaired any sort of rebuilding of the culture and country. The younger generation must literally start from scratch, but they have been raised by an entire nation dealing with severe trauma. Its a dismal and desperate situation.
Bearing these difficulties in mind, its not hard to understand why many Cambodians may be unsmiling and come across as unfriendly or even aggressive in their pursuit of your tourist cash, though it doesn't make the experience more pleasant.
However, I have encountered a few individuals who really gave me perspective; one was the teacher I mentioned that I met on the bus to Kampong Cham. He stepped in to help me with a confusing transit situation, and then we chatted about the challenges facing Cambodia, and his optimism and pride for his country was quite inspiring.
My guide during my jungle trek in Sen Monorom was a young man from a local Indigenous village; cheerful, industrious, and ambitious. Only a couple years ago, he lived and worked on his family's farm. When he was given the opportunity to work as a driver for a local guesthouse, he began to pick up both the Cambodian and English languages. Soon he was invited to work at the guesthouse restraurant as a server, where his language skills improved. By the time he was guiding our tour, he had only been speaking English for a year, and guiding for only a month! I was so impressed by how much English he knew, and how he has so quickly begun to start a life for himself. He told me he wants to work for a year to save money and then go to the local English school to learn more, and eventually go to Phnom Penh to see the big city. He has never left the Mondulkiri province in his entire life, and he dreams of seeing Siem Reap and Angkor Wat for himself one day.
Another was a random chat with a girl working in a cafe I stopped in. She seemed anxious to talk, and her story was a sad one. I listened to her summarized life story, and answered her questions about my own life- we are about the same age, but our worlds seem so different. Despite her trials, she is working hard and hopes to improve her life. She told me in her simple English that our conversation made her feel happier and more optimistic...at first I had been a bit cautious, wondering if this was some kind of scam in which I would be asked for money or something, cynic that I am, but when it went no further I felt humbled. Maybe in a country where everyone has huge problems, people just need someone to listen to them.
These conversations with ordinary, everyday Cambodians stand out to me as bright spots in what might otherwise seem like a depressing and discouraging situation.
From what I have heard, Cambodia is a country that is changing fast- I sincerely hope that it goes the direction that these 3 would take it.
Wednesday, 7 October 2015
Day 3, and I'm Ready For A Vacation!
I should have learned by now that even when you think you know what you've signed up for when you volunteer abroad, nothing goes to plan!
Monday was my first day at the Fatima Center, a community outreach run by the Good Shepherd Sisters of a local Catholic Church here in Bangkok. It is surprisingly large place, and I'm not even entirely certain if I've seen even half of it. There is a large school, a kindergarten/preschool, and the women's center for women escaping abuse and seeking help with unplanned pregnancies, where I expected to begin helping this week.
I arrived with two staff members from Friends For Asia, the organization that is hosting me. When we met with the sister in charge, she told me that there were some new women settling in, and it would be better for me to start there on Thursday. Until then, could I help out in the kindergarten and teach English to the kids?
One day I'll write a long post about volunteering abroad in general! I have a draft sitting around since last January when I spent 4 weeks volunteering at a home for girls in Peru. But basically, one thing I have learned is that you just have to roll with it, and do whatever you can to help!
I don't spend a lot of time with children, especially really small ones. I find them a bit intimidating, to be honest. They are so loud, and unpredicatable! One minute they're crying, then theye're laughing, then they are hitting someone, and then they're jumping on top of you...
So there I was, suddenly thrust into a classroom of about 20 small children of greatly differing ages (my inexperienced guess would be a range from 3-7), with the teacher looking at me like "now they're your problem".
I am not an ESL teacher. I'm not a teacher of any kind! And I certainly don't know what to do with a rowdy classroom of little kids that speak a different language. However, I never know what little kids are saying to me anyway, so it really did't feel all that different from my usual interactions.
I grabbed some books from the corner, and we practiced the ABC's, and sang Old McDonald Had a Farm, and The Wheels On The Bus...a few old favorites, by the sounds of it. They espcially liked when the Horn On The Bus Goes Beep Beep Beep!
It was chaotic, and loud, and overwhelming. But the kids are funny and cute, and when I got home that night (with a raging headache), I was able to do some preparation for the next day so that I couldd avoid that awkward moment of standing in front of them with my mind drawing complete blanks on what to do about the whole situation!
We praciced opposites (up, down, hot, cold...they love actions and funny faces), and words for emotions, action words, and sang If You're Happy And You Know It (for the following verses I made up whatever came to my head...its amazing to me that I actually don't know these songs beyond the name of it).
Today I prepared a lesson on shapes and colors, and I came armed with 2 different coloring pages for them (personally hand-drawn and then photocopied. Why thank you, yes I am so artistic and teacher-y! Thank you, thank you very much). They LOVE coloring! What a lifesaver.
Usually no activity lasts for more than 10 minutes before they lose interest and its on to the next thing, which I panic to set into motion before total loss of attention!
Luckily, there is more than just lessons. I arrive around 9-ish, after they've already begun, and then take over until about 10:30. Then they have some play time until 11-ish. I help set up lunch by placing the dishes on the table and chasing away pesky pidgeons who would like to eat too. Then I make sure the kids each find a seat (about 70-80 in all, I think) when they come in, and continue pidgeon duty for the remainder of the meal. After the kids are finished, they take their dishes to the back (to be cleaned by hand by one of the teachers) and brush their teeth. Meanwhile I help another teacher to wipe tables and benches, and sweep and mop the floor.
After cleanup, we eat lunch (purchased by another teacher from somewhere outside the compound) in the classrooms, watching over the kids who are supposed to be sleeping on straw mats on the floor. They, of course, do not wish to sleep (I would love to trade places with them!). There is lots of pinching, tickling, whispering, fart noises, coughing, giggling, etc., until the teacher shouts at them to be quiet. Eventually they do fall asleep, and I have spent this hour and a half entertaining one little girl who never naps (the teachers have just accepted it, and let her go about her business), and an older girl who is the daughter of one of the other teachers.
After nap-time, the teachers brush all the little girls hair and re-braid it...those that know me well are probably giggling to themselves picturing me braiding little girls hair. It is another gaping hole in my qualifications as a Thai teacher.
After this, the kids get a snack, and then its back into the classroom for more English lessons with Teacher Jill!
They do not respect me AT ALL when it comes to discipline. In fact they usually completely ignore me when I tell them to behave, or else they just smile and continue merrily on. Again, not much different than kids at home. I am not a very threatening figure, apparently!
I am ok with this for the most part, mostly because I take it to mean that I am nothing like their teacher, whom I also fear. This woman is terrifying. I am sure differences of what is culturally acceptable account for much of her behaviour (such as physical discipline, ie: hitting children/smacking their palms with a ruler), but she also has done a few things that made me feel sick to watch, such as taunting and humiliating certain children in front of the class. It is hard to know what my place and role are here, so I don't know what to do about it. Its one of the really hard parts of working in a foreign culture. Even when kids piss you off, they are still just kids, and I hate to see authority figures abuse their power.
On a happier note, the kids really seemed to warm up to me today while I was playing with them. It was supposed to be a "sports day", but the rain really picked up right before we were going to head out, so we all played inside. They are really sweet kids, and were so thrilled just to throw a ball, play clapping games, sing songs, or read a familiar storybook. They love being tickled, being captured by a falling "London Bridge", and impressing me with how much English they already know.
There is definitely a part of me that was sad to wave goodbye this afternoon, but another part of me is deeply, deeply, relieved!!! I honestly do not know how I would survive an entire month of what has occured in the past 3 days. I feel like would need a heavier dose of extroversion in my blood to cope.
I am also excited to see what my placement in the women's center will be like. I find it much more enjoyable to interact in smaller groups, and to be able to work with a hopefully longer attention span (rather than struggling to get 20 children to sit in a circle for more than 2 seconds).
I'll report back on the weekend!
Monday was my first day at the Fatima Center, a community outreach run by the Good Shepherd Sisters of a local Catholic Church here in Bangkok. It is surprisingly large place, and I'm not even entirely certain if I've seen even half of it. There is a large school, a kindergarten/preschool, and the women's center for women escaping abuse and seeking help with unplanned pregnancies, where I expected to begin helping this week.
I arrived with two staff members from Friends For Asia, the organization that is hosting me. When we met with the sister in charge, she told me that there were some new women settling in, and it would be better for me to start there on Thursday. Until then, could I help out in the kindergarten and teach English to the kids?
One day I'll write a long post about volunteering abroad in general! I have a draft sitting around since last January when I spent 4 weeks volunteering at a home for girls in Peru. But basically, one thing I have learned is that you just have to roll with it, and do whatever you can to help!
I don't spend a lot of time with children, especially really small ones. I find them a bit intimidating, to be honest. They are so loud, and unpredicatable! One minute they're crying, then theye're laughing, then they are hitting someone, and then they're jumping on top of you...
So there I was, suddenly thrust into a classroom of about 20 small children of greatly differing ages (my inexperienced guess would be a range from 3-7), with the teacher looking at me like "now they're your problem".
I am not an ESL teacher. I'm not a teacher of any kind! And I certainly don't know what to do with a rowdy classroom of little kids that speak a different language. However, I never know what little kids are saying to me anyway, so it really did't feel all that different from my usual interactions.
I grabbed some books from the corner, and we practiced the ABC's, and sang Old McDonald Had a Farm, and The Wheels On The Bus...a few old favorites, by the sounds of it. They espcially liked when the Horn On The Bus Goes Beep Beep Beep!
It was chaotic, and loud, and overwhelming. But the kids are funny and cute, and when I got home that night (with a raging headache), I was able to do some preparation for the next day so that I couldd avoid that awkward moment of standing in front of them with my mind drawing complete blanks on what to do about the whole situation!
We praciced opposites (up, down, hot, cold...they love actions and funny faces), and words for emotions, action words, and sang If You're Happy And You Know It (for the following verses I made up whatever came to my head...its amazing to me that I actually don't know these songs beyond the name of it).
Today I prepared a lesson on shapes and colors, and I came armed with 2 different coloring pages for them (personally hand-drawn and then photocopied. Why thank you, yes I am so artistic and teacher-y! Thank you, thank you very much). They LOVE coloring! What a lifesaver.
Usually no activity lasts for more than 10 minutes before they lose interest and its on to the next thing, which I panic to set into motion before total loss of attention!
Luckily, there is more than just lessons. I arrive around 9-ish, after they've already begun, and then take over until about 10:30. Then they have some play time until 11-ish. I help set up lunch by placing the dishes on the table and chasing away pesky pidgeons who would like to eat too. Then I make sure the kids each find a seat (about 70-80 in all, I think) when they come in, and continue pidgeon duty for the remainder of the meal. After the kids are finished, they take their dishes to the back (to be cleaned by hand by one of the teachers) and brush their teeth. Meanwhile I help another teacher to wipe tables and benches, and sweep and mop the floor.
After cleanup, we eat lunch (purchased by another teacher from somewhere outside the compound) in the classrooms, watching over the kids who are supposed to be sleeping on straw mats on the floor. They, of course, do not wish to sleep (I would love to trade places with them!). There is lots of pinching, tickling, whispering, fart noises, coughing, giggling, etc., until the teacher shouts at them to be quiet. Eventually they do fall asleep, and I have spent this hour and a half entertaining one little girl who never naps (the teachers have just accepted it, and let her go about her business), and an older girl who is the daughter of one of the other teachers.
After nap-time, the teachers brush all the little girls hair and re-braid it...those that know me well are probably giggling to themselves picturing me braiding little girls hair. It is another gaping hole in my qualifications as a Thai teacher.
After this, the kids get a snack, and then its back into the classroom for more English lessons with Teacher Jill!
They do not respect me AT ALL when it comes to discipline. In fact they usually completely ignore me when I tell them to behave, or else they just smile and continue merrily on. Again, not much different than kids at home. I am not a very threatening figure, apparently!
I am ok with this for the most part, mostly because I take it to mean that I am nothing like their teacher, whom I also fear. This woman is terrifying. I am sure differences of what is culturally acceptable account for much of her behaviour (such as physical discipline, ie: hitting children/smacking their palms with a ruler), but she also has done a few things that made me feel sick to watch, such as taunting and humiliating certain children in front of the class. It is hard to know what my place and role are here, so I don't know what to do about it. Its one of the really hard parts of working in a foreign culture. Even when kids piss you off, they are still just kids, and I hate to see authority figures abuse their power.
On a happier note, the kids really seemed to warm up to me today while I was playing with them. It was supposed to be a "sports day", but the rain really picked up right before we were going to head out, so we all played inside. They are really sweet kids, and were so thrilled just to throw a ball, play clapping games, sing songs, or read a familiar storybook. They love being tickled, being captured by a falling "London Bridge", and impressing me with how much English they already know.
There is definitely a part of me that was sad to wave goodbye this afternoon, but another part of me is deeply, deeply, relieved!!! I honestly do not know how I would survive an entire month of what has occured in the past 3 days. I feel like would need a heavier dose of extroversion in my blood to cope.
I am also excited to see what my placement in the women's center will be like. I find it much more enjoyable to interact in smaller groups, and to be able to work with a hopefully longer attention span (rather than struggling to get 20 children to sit in a circle for more than 2 seconds).
I'll report back on the weekend!
Sunday, 4 October 2015
The Big Bangkok
The weekend is nearly over...I begin my volunteer placement tomorrow! What have I been up to in the meantime?
1. Thai Language Lessons
It was less than a year ago I started my Spanish lessons with Proyecto Peru in Cusco...what the heck makes me think my brain is capable of learning another language now?? Well, its just part of the curriculum for one thing, but I also really enjoy it. Yes, its a struggle, and I tend to forget things immediately after hearing them, but learning a language really does make a huge impact on being able to absorb a culture and travel experience. Thai is fascinating, because it is a tonal language...one word can have several meanings depending on intonation. I struggled to get my "maa" sound right in order to say "I am from Canada", instead mistakenly saying "my dog is from Canada". The trouble is it all sounds the same to me...Its going to be interesting once I start braving the streets with my new-found vocab!
Fun fact: I blurted out "Gracias!" to my server at the restaurant. Apparently my brain has registered I'm in a foreign country, it just hasn't realized that Spanish is of no use here.
2. Tasting Thai Food
I'm sure you are all well aware of my love of food. Its one of the best reasons to travel! Yesterday the staff took me to a fancy Thai buffet to sample the country's cusine...it was wonderful! I really tried not to eat too much, but it seemed like there was always one more thing to try! How can one resist the tastebud-tempting flavors of coconut, ginger, lemongrass, sweet basil, lime, peanut, spicy chilies, and garlic? What is not to love? I've even gotten adventurous with seafood, sampling squid, mussels, prawns, and various fish. I still don't love it, but I'm giving it a fair chance.
I also tried some interesting beverages...there was a sweet coffee-like iced drink that I really liked, and today my new friends handed me a takeaway cup filled with ominously black liquid and weird jello-y tapioca filling. It wasn't terrible, and it was nice to sip on something cold, but I can't say I'm a fan.
The sweets have been interesting. I tried a warm vanilla-flavored soup with tapioca balls in it (also not a fave), sweetened baked pumpkin covered in a warm cinnamon-spiced coconut milk sauce which was surprisingly delicious, crispy sugar wafers filled with marshmallow and sweetened, deep-fried slivers of egg yolk, and a coconut macaroon-type square. Its nice that most things are prepared with a rice base so I don't have to worry about the gluten issue too much.
Fun fact: the staff were convinced I had told them I was allergic to "weed", not "wheat". It was a pretty hilarious moment when this misunderstanding came to light.
3. City Sight-seeing
Yesterday we visited the Benchamabophit Dusitvanaram Temple (I despair of ever being able to pronounce that), which was really beautiful. We even got really lucky, because it was the last day of a festival there, so it was an extra unique experience!
The 3 saff here at FFA are all locals, and practicing Buddhists (at some level, anyway), so they took part in some interesting rituals, including buying a beautiful bamboo "giftbasket" filled with fruit, rice, and water, attaching banknote, and then writing a prayer on a piece of paper to deceased family members. This prayer and basket are intended as offerings to the family member, and are given to a monk, who reads the prayer on behalf of the the giver, and takes the basket (which is then resold to the next person).
The other ritual was the purchase of some river snakes in a plastic bag, which are released back into the river after reading a specific prayer. The snakes are symbolic of good luck. You can also purchase small turtles on behalf of deceased family, or fish for protection against evil.
The festival also brought food vendors. Since we had just eaten, the most I tried was a free sample of a pork skin puff. Like a pork-flavored styrofoam peanut. Yum.
Today we did a different kind of sight-seeing...we visited some huge shopping malls! The Siam Paragon was massive, high-end, and elaborately designed. We quickly moved on to the smaller, cheaper nearby mall where I purchased some basic shoes that will be appropriate attire for my volunteer placement. I got my first glimpse of typical Thai tourist souveniers, and maybe its a good thing that I have no room in my backpack because I instantly wanted to garb myself in nothing but those infinitely comfortable-looking pants and dresses.
Fun Fact: both Cusco and here in Bangkok, the locals are so proud of their shopping malls and can't wait to show them off. Generally speaking, I try to avoid malls, and they are definitely not something I seek out when I want to experience a new country and culture. No matter where you go, malls all seem pretty much the same.
4. Sweating profusely
It is so hot here. So. Hot. Its like the entire city is a low-setting sauna...sweaty and humid. When I got off the plane and took my first breath of local un-air-conditioned oxygen, it felt like trying to inhale something solid. The heat is like a steaming wool blanket enveloping you at all times.
I am dying. And sticky. And my hair has gone completely feral.
Fun fact: the staff have been complaining of how cold it is, and they are wearing scarves and sweaters. All I want is to stand in the cold shower all day.
5. Getting Over Jetlag
My internal clock is slowly readjusting, but I've still been waking up around 3-4am, and feeling exceptionally weary at 6:30pm. Its going to take time. Jumping ahead 14 hours wreaks a little bit of havoc on a person.
Well, that's all for now! I'll check back after my first day of volunteering :)
1. Thai Language Lessons
It was less than a year ago I started my Spanish lessons with Proyecto Peru in Cusco...what the heck makes me think my brain is capable of learning another language now?? Well, its just part of the curriculum for one thing, but I also really enjoy it. Yes, its a struggle, and I tend to forget things immediately after hearing them, but learning a language really does make a huge impact on being able to absorb a culture and travel experience. Thai is fascinating, because it is a tonal language...one word can have several meanings depending on intonation. I struggled to get my "maa" sound right in order to say "I am from Canada", instead mistakenly saying "my dog is from Canada". The trouble is it all sounds the same to me...Its going to be interesting once I start braving the streets with my new-found vocab!
Fun fact: I blurted out "Gracias!" to my server at the restaurant. Apparently my brain has registered I'm in a foreign country, it just hasn't realized that Spanish is of no use here.
2. Tasting Thai Food
I'm sure you are all well aware of my love of food. Its one of the best reasons to travel! Yesterday the staff took me to a fancy Thai buffet to sample the country's cusine...it was wonderful! I really tried not to eat too much, but it seemed like there was always one more thing to try! How can one resist the tastebud-tempting flavors of coconut, ginger, lemongrass, sweet basil, lime, peanut, spicy chilies, and garlic? What is not to love? I've even gotten adventurous with seafood, sampling squid, mussels, prawns, and various fish. I still don't love it, but I'm giving it a fair chance.
I also tried some interesting beverages...there was a sweet coffee-like iced drink that I really liked, and today my new friends handed me a takeaway cup filled with ominously black liquid and weird jello-y tapioca filling. It wasn't terrible, and it was nice to sip on something cold, but I can't say I'm a fan.
The sweets have been interesting. I tried a warm vanilla-flavored soup with tapioca balls in it (also not a fave), sweetened baked pumpkin covered in a warm cinnamon-spiced coconut milk sauce which was surprisingly delicious, crispy sugar wafers filled with marshmallow and sweetened, deep-fried slivers of egg yolk, and a coconut macaroon-type square. Its nice that most things are prepared with a rice base so I don't have to worry about the gluten issue too much.
Fun fact: the staff were convinced I had told them I was allergic to "weed", not "wheat". It was a pretty hilarious moment when this misunderstanding came to light.
3. City Sight-seeing
Yesterday we visited the Benchamabophit Dusitvanaram Temple (I despair of ever being able to pronounce that), which was really beautiful. We even got really lucky, because it was the last day of a festival there, so it was an extra unique experience!
The 3 saff here at FFA are all locals, and practicing Buddhists (at some level, anyway), so they took part in some interesting rituals, including buying a beautiful bamboo "giftbasket" filled with fruit, rice, and water, attaching banknote, and then writing a prayer on a piece of paper to deceased family members. This prayer and basket are intended as offerings to the family member, and are given to a monk, who reads the prayer on behalf of the the giver, and takes the basket (which is then resold to the next person).
The other ritual was the purchase of some river snakes in a plastic bag, which are released back into the river after reading a specific prayer. The snakes are symbolic of good luck. You can also purchase small turtles on behalf of deceased family, or fish for protection against evil.
The festival also brought food vendors. Since we had just eaten, the most I tried was a free sample of a pork skin puff. Like a pork-flavored styrofoam peanut. Yum.
Today we did a different kind of sight-seeing...we visited some huge shopping malls! The Siam Paragon was massive, high-end, and elaborately designed. We quickly moved on to the smaller, cheaper nearby mall where I purchased some basic shoes that will be appropriate attire for my volunteer placement. I got my first glimpse of typical Thai tourist souveniers, and maybe its a good thing that I have no room in my backpack because I instantly wanted to garb myself in nothing but those infinitely comfortable-looking pants and dresses.
Fun Fact: both Cusco and here in Bangkok, the locals are so proud of their shopping malls and can't wait to show them off. Generally speaking, I try to avoid malls, and they are definitely not something I seek out when I want to experience a new country and culture. No matter where you go, malls all seem pretty much the same.
4. Sweating profusely
It is so hot here. So. Hot. Its like the entire city is a low-setting sauna...sweaty and humid. When I got off the plane and took my first breath of local un-air-conditioned oxygen, it felt like trying to inhale something solid. The heat is like a steaming wool blanket enveloping you at all times.
I am dying. And sticky. And my hair has gone completely feral.
Fun fact: the staff have been complaining of how cold it is, and they are wearing scarves and sweaters. All I want is to stand in the cold shower all day.
5. Getting Over Jetlag
My internal clock is slowly readjusting, but I've still been waking up around 3-4am, and feeling exceptionally weary at 6:30pm. Its going to take time. Jumping ahead 14 hours wreaks a little bit of havoc on a person.
Well, that's all for now! I'll check back after my first day of volunteering :)
Thursday, 17 September 2015
First Days in Cusco
Getting ready for my next adventure has me reminiscing about my first days in Cusco last December.
I'm trying to remember what it was like, how I felt, and the things that seemed so strange at first, before I slowly grew accustomed to life in South America. I'm mentally preparing to go through that awkward stage again once I reach Bangkok.
I remember it was very cold when I arrived. There was no central heat in house, which was not uncommon. I would bundle up in my newly-purchased alapaca sweater and wrap myself in my blankets while I typed away on my tablet or studied my Spanish lessons. It didn't help that I couldn't figure out how to get a hot shower for the first week, so I would come out shaking like a leaf and stay shivering for a very long time! (note to newbies: to get hot water out of those electric showerheads, only use the very smallest level of water pressure possible. Also, try not to get electrocuted)
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| Regis in front of the Catholic cathedral in Plaza de Armas, |
I loved my homestay hosts from the very first. They were an adorable older couple that just loved to have young travelers stay with them. They patiently helped us along with our Spanish, advised us on how much was a reasonable price for taxis, instructed us which buses to take, and fed us delicious food!!! They were a huge highlight of my stay in Cusco, and I highly recommend living with locals while traveling, at least for a portion of the time. I lived in a part of the city I probably would never have seen otherwise, and experienced the day-to-day Cusco from a local perspective.
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| L-R: me, my homestay "parents", and my Dutch housemate |
Speedy Gonzales was the little terrier pup that belonged to my hosts. Since they were empty-nesters, Speedy became their fur baby and he was spoiled, but so much fun! It felt very homey and reassuring to have a pet around. He was always happy to see me when I got home :)
I arrived in Cusco at an awkward time, right before New Years. The regular classtimes at my Spanish school were interrupted due to the holidays which delayed the ideal scenario of slipping into a regular routine, and in addition to that there were not many students enrolled. I ended up in individual classes for the first while because no one else was at the beginner level with me. This was nice because it meant I was basically being tutored, but it was also overwhelming.
To have to adjust to a new home, culture, language, and social situation was exhausting and stressful! I had no friends, no family, and nothing familiar at all to turn to.
To have to adjust to a new home, culture, language, and social situation was exhausting and stressful! I had no friends, no family, and nothing familiar at all to turn to.
When New Years came around, I felt lonely and isolated. I was incredibly relieved when E., a young Peruvian employee at the Spanish school, invited me to join her and her friends for the celebration.
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| E. and I joining the festivities in Plaza de Armas at New Years |
I had only spoken to her over email before I arrived, and a couple times at the school, but I really liked her because she was so friendly and outgoing. Her English is fantastic as well, so I finally had someone to talk to! She ended up not joining her other friends for the night, so we just hung out and talked the night away, danced around the plaza at midnight amidst fireworks and drunken revelry, and then chilled at a local pub and listened to some fantastic live music until the wee hours!
Having a friend made a huge difference to me, and things started to look up.
Having a friend made a huge difference to me, and things started to look up.
At the beginning, everything is new and difficult. I took this photo from a cafe off Plaza de Armas, while exploring the city alone and ordering a meal in Spanish for the first time. I was so nervous about the most basic phrases, but with practice it became easier. Navigating transit and city streets by myself was stressful at first as well, but eventually I learned my way around (I made lots of mistakes, and it wasn't the end of the world!), and it felt awesome to be able to show newbies how to get around and where to go.
I loved randomly experiencing something unexpected. Sometimes it was festivals and dancing in the streets. Sometimes it was a conversation with a local lady. Sometimes it was trying a new food I had never seen before. Every day was something new and exciting.
I know that my first weeks traveling will be difficult and full of uncomfortable adjustments. A part of me dreads that and wishes I could skip it all together, but the truth is that those first days are when the impressions are the strongest and there is so much potential to see things so clearly...things that fade and become normal over time. I want to try to do better at capturing those moments this time. Hopefully it won't take me 10 months to get around to sharing them with you :)
Wednesday, 18 February 2015
8 Weeks of Tropical Living
So, what the heck am I doing in Venezuela?
I stumbled across Foundacion Aldeas de Paz (Peace Villages Foundation) website while googling volunteer opportunities in South America, and it appealed to me because it has an NGO Administration Internship program. Since I've been studying Sociology, I've been trying to figure out a potential career direction within that field, and this seemed like a cool way to explore one aspect. They also offer free Spanish classes, and it's in friggen Venezuela for Pete's sake! That sounded like an adventure to me!
So far, it's been a pretty neat-o experience, though off to a slow start. As it turns out, the social and political climate is kind of crappy in Venezuela right now, which makes it a sort of unappealing place for potential volunteers. This fact combined with some other drama that occurred in the previous months, means that I have arrived at a time when there are literally no other volunteers here! There are 2 guys on staff that are really nice, but I was expecting there to be a big community here and instead its just the three of us! The founder is not here either, as he is currently working on a project in the Dominican Republic. Since I¨m working in the office, its ok. I´ve been going through our old listings on different volunteer agency websites updating information, and doing some maintenance for the guesthouse. I think I will be able to keep busy, but it can get pretty quiet over here sometimes, especially since its a 2km walk to the town, which is not recommended to do alone.
So, its not really what I was expecting as far as meeting people, but on the plus side I´m hoping my Spanish will improve!
Some highlights and memorable moments include:
-the lovely warm weather! No alapca sweaters necessary!
-beautiful mountains and jungle
-delicious fresh fruit, including mangos from a tree on the grounds, and weird bananas we chopped down and then deep-fried with seasoning salt and garlic....sooo delicious!
-driving 20 minutes to cross the border into Brazil! We bought things like fresh milk, laundry soap, and chocolate...you literally can't buy these in Venezuela, they are just not available!
-an abundance of creepy crawlies, including a frog that jumped out of the toilet bowl after I flushed (causing confusion and outright terror/horror), a black moth the size of my hand, a cockroach under the cuttingboard, and my new roommate Oliver, a lizard, who watches over me while I sleep.
-Falling asleep to the sound of crickets and frogs, and waking up to the birds and monkeys.
-homemade arepas and empanadas...easy to make, and so tasty!
-eating a red ant in a spicy sauce...apparently this is a Venezuelan snack, but I will pass on it next time...
-watching a futbol game in town, and snapping some photos of the Carneval parade
It's been a pretty chill week for me, which has been kind of a nice way to adapt to a new surroundings. Cusco was kind of a warm-up to the real culture shock that comes with Venezuela. Things here are just completely different than at home, so its good that I´ve had time to get used to some of the different things about South America before plunging straight into this crazy place.
Obviously, one thing to get used to is the completely different concept of time. I simply accept that things will happen approximately an hour after they are scheduled to occur. Sometimes its more like 2 hours. Everything is done at a more leisurely pace, there is no rush. Everything takes a long time. For example, I was supposed to have a planning meeting when I arrived, but since I got there late in the week, we decided to do it "on Monday". Monday comes, and we plan for 2pm. At 2, it sounds like someone will be late, so we reschedule for 5. At 6pm, I realize its not going to happen, so we reschedule for 8am the next morning. The next morning at 8am, we are eating breakfast, so we finally get around to starting the meeting at 9am, and then one of the guys is distracted by the uneven table leg, so that has to get fixed before we can start...you get the idea. Things get done, but at a verrrry different pace. I´m actually embracing it, though I know its going to be rough when I throw myself back into a treeplanting camp and have to have meals ready on time! haha...
Getting used to the aforementioned creepy-crawlies takes a bit of effort. At least there haven´t been any spiders...yet.
There are a lot less tourists here in Santa Elena than in Cusco, so being white and speaking English makes me stand out even more than before. While in Peru I stood out as a tourist, here I´m more of a novelty. South American culture is very "macho", so guys tend to catcall and whistle at women a lot, and be very persistent when showing interest in girls. On my first morning here I joined one of the guys on staff to the morning market to do the grocery shopping, and I was quite surprised to find my blue eyes attracted a lot of attention from guys in the village...this is not something I am used to or very comfortable with! I am relieved that I decided to get rid of the platinum blonde hair before traveling. Its going to be an adjustment for me to get used to this part of the culture.
Things I am looking forward to:
I am planning on doing two different treks while I´m here, which I´ve heard are really, really good. Details to come (and maybe eventually photos!)
I am also putting some pressure on the guys to do some exploring on the weekends, because I want to see more of the country and get off the property once in a while! We´ll see how it goes :)
Until next time...
I stumbled across Foundacion Aldeas de Paz (Peace Villages Foundation) website while googling volunteer opportunities in South America, and it appealed to me because it has an NGO Administration Internship program. Since I've been studying Sociology, I've been trying to figure out a potential career direction within that field, and this seemed like a cool way to explore one aspect. They also offer free Spanish classes, and it's in friggen Venezuela for Pete's sake! That sounded like an adventure to me!
So far, it's been a pretty neat-o experience, though off to a slow start. As it turns out, the social and political climate is kind of crappy in Venezuela right now, which makes it a sort of unappealing place for potential volunteers. This fact combined with some other drama that occurred in the previous months, means that I have arrived at a time when there are literally no other volunteers here! There are 2 guys on staff that are really nice, but I was expecting there to be a big community here and instead its just the three of us! The founder is not here either, as he is currently working on a project in the Dominican Republic. Since I¨m working in the office, its ok. I´ve been going through our old listings on different volunteer agency websites updating information, and doing some maintenance for the guesthouse. I think I will be able to keep busy, but it can get pretty quiet over here sometimes, especially since its a 2km walk to the town, which is not recommended to do alone.
So, its not really what I was expecting as far as meeting people, but on the plus side I´m hoping my Spanish will improve!
Some highlights and memorable moments include:
-the lovely warm weather! No alapca sweaters necessary!
-beautiful mountains and jungle
-delicious fresh fruit, including mangos from a tree on the grounds, and weird bananas we chopped down and then deep-fried with seasoning salt and garlic....sooo delicious!
-driving 20 minutes to cross the border into Brazil! We bought things like fresh milk, laundry soap, and chocolate...you literally can't buy these in Venezuela, they are just not available!
-an abundance of creepy crawlies, including a frog that jumped out of the toilet bowl after I flushed (causing confusion and outright terror/horror), a black moth the size of my hand, a cockroach under the cuttingboard, and my new roommate Oliver, a lizard, who watches over me while I sleep.
-Falling asleep to the sound of crickets and frogs, and waking up to the birds and monkeys.
-homemade arepas and empanadas...easy to make, and so tasty!
-eating a red ant in a spicy sauce...apparently this is a Venezuelan snack, but I will pass on it next time...
-watching a futbol game in town, and snapping some photos of the Carneval parade
It's been a pretty chill week for me, which has been kind of a nice way to adapt to a new surroundings. Cusco was kind of a warm-up to the real culture shock that comes with Venezuela. Things here are just completely different than at home, so its good that I´ve had time to get used to some of the different things about South America before plunging straight into this crazy place.
Obviously, one thing to get used to is the completely different concept of time. I simply accept that things will happen approximately an hour after they are scheduled to occur. Sometimes its more like 2 hours. Everything is done at a more leisurely pace, there is no rush. Everything takes a long time. For example, I was supposed to have a planning meeting when I arrived, but since I got there late in the week, we decided to do it "on Monday". Monday comes, and we plan for 2pm. At 2, it sounds like someone will be late, so we reschedule for 5. At 6pm, I realize its not going to happen, so we reschedule for 8am the next morning. The next morning at 8am, we are eating breakfast, so we finally get around to starting the meeting at 9am, and then one of the guys is distracted by the uneven table leg, so that has to get fixed before we can start...you get the idea. Things get done, but at a verrrry different pace. I´m actually embracing it, though I know its going to be rough when I throw myself back into a treeplanting camp and have to have meals ready on time! haha...
Getting used to the aforementioned creepy-crawlies takes a bit of effort. At least there haven´t been any spiders...yet.
There are a lot less tourists here in Santa Elena than in Cusco, so being white and speaking English makes me stand out even more than before. While in Peru I stood out as a tourist, here I´m more of a novelty. South American culture is very "macho", so guys tend to catcall and whistle at women a lot, and be very persistent when showing interest in girls. On my first morning here I joined one of the guys on staff to the morning market to do the grocery shopping, and I was quite surprised to find my blue eyes attracted a lot of attention from guys in the village...this is not something I am used to or very comfortable with! I am relieved that I decided to get rid of the platinum blonde hair before traveling. Its going to be an adjustment for me to get used to this part of the culture.
Things I am looking forward to:
I am planning on doing two different treks while I´m here, which I´ve heard are really, really good. Details to come (and maybe eventually photos!)
I am also putting some pressure on the guys to do some exploring on the weekends, because I want to see more of the country and get off the property once in a while! We´ll see how it goes :)
Until next time...
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